Imdadi Hotel: How a Ramazan special restaurant in Pune celebrates memory of a departed friend

“This simple effort has turned into a restaurant, Imdadi, now offers a variety of biryani, starters and sweet dishes,” said Ibrahim Shaikh, another close friend of Memon. To savour the treats at this unique restaurant, which has been popping up in Pune only during Ramzan for 39 years now – with a break during Covid – Pune’s food lovers must join the traffic at Camp.

Wafts of scintillating spices grow stronger as one passes the imposing red edifice of Ohel David Synagogue. A hoarding, reading ‘Imdadi’, stands tall and on the side of the road. The sign is held up by wood, iron and rope – serving as a reminder of Imdadi’s fleeting nature.

Imdad means to help and the earnings from Imdadi are spent the year around, mostly, as fees for children in schools and colleges. (Express Photo by Pavan Khengre)

A few hours before iftar, narrow tables are laid out with mounds of samosas, kebabs, phirni and halwa. Inside a vast hall, batches of cooks, mostly from Mumbai, drop kebabs into massive woks of sizzling oil. On a pit outside, whole chickens turn into crisp, soft tandoori delicacies.

Tables and chairs are laid out to accommodate thousands who stream in, but during the evening, long lines can form. “The crowd that comes here is Sikh, Muslim, Christian, Hindu and Parsi. Everybody comes and enjoys the food,” said Shakeel Shaikh, a photographer, adding that the focus is on meat, and vegetarian dishes are limited to samosas and other snacks.

‘Imdad’ means to help and the earnings from Imdadi are spent year around, mostly, as fees for children in schools and colleges. “We have jobs, businesses and shops but, for one month, we take leave and come here. The work that we do with the profits from the restaurant benefits a lot of people,” said Salim Jawali, an employee.

Service starts at 5 pm and there are crowds even when the stoves go off at 11 pm. The menu is vast and spoils one for choice; Mutton comes as Mutton Dabba Gosht, Mutton Bheja Masala, Mutton Dum Biryani, Mutton Achari and the special Mutton Imdadi. Chicken items range from Murg Mussallam to Butter Chicken, Chicken Korma and Chicken Handi. There are a host of deserts, from faluda and phirni to dudhi halwa and shahi tukda. The hot sellers range from seekh platters and samosas to Chicken Barfi and Chicken Lollipop.

“Everything is made fresh every day,” says Jawali. Imdadi has grown past just a friend’s group’s endeavour, with a new generation now learning the ropes. Wasim Sheikh, Ibrahim’s son, came to Imdadi every Ramzan as a child. Today, he is a part of its activities. “I like to work here during Ramzan because our aim is not profit but charity. I like it that people go away blessing and praising us,” said Wasim.