We like it hot

Sachin Parmar,however,needs no such shield even as he roasts kilos of Bedgi chillies in an open utensil,with a grinding mill spewing chilli powder right behind him — he is a third-generation masala maker. “The blood in my veins is probably redder than others because this is what I breathe every day of my life,” he laughs,without bothering to look up. At this time of the year,he can’t afford to waste a second — chillies are in season and at Mirchi Galli it’s time for brisk business.

Maharashtra is one of the few Indian states where chillies make for a cash crop. Even its cuisine is known for its pungency. A serving of pickled fresh chillies make for the most common accompaniment with snacks like samosas,vada pav and bhajiyas. Apart from the liberal use of chillies in the main course,thecha or kharda — potent chillies pickled in oil with or without crushed peanuts — are used as a side dish.

Recent weeks have witnessed a surge of fresh produce in the market. A fresh crop takes up to two weeks to mature into the green variety and up to a month to further mature into red chillies. The red variety is then dried in the sun before being sold. “The interiors of the state that belong to the arid plateau region — Kolhapur,Satara,Belgaum,Sangli— are the hotbed for chillies since the crop requires minimum water for growth,” says Ananda Solomon,of Taj by Vivanta,Mumbai. The chef,who has travelled the interiors extensively for research before launching Konkan Café at the hotel,says that in the region,people treat chillies as a vegetable,not as a mere spice,due to its abundance. “The most common meal of a farmer,hence,is bhakri (traditional Maharashtrian bread) teamed with fresh chillies and onion.”

The tiny Lavangi; the hot red Bedgi,which is dried and ground into powder,and the long thin Sankeshwari — all grown in the state’s Deccan plateau region — are most famous for their potency. Even though these are all available in Mumbai,Rupesh Bhonsale who used to be a chilli farmer in Kolhapur before he came to the city 12 years ago,insists that the potency of the produce from his region cannot be replicated here. “Factors such as soil and weather can affect the crop — the Bedgi from northern Kolhapur is considered the hottest in all of Maharashtra.” Ironically,the other half of his field grows sugarcane crop. The 30-year-old,however,admits to the lack of sweet tooth. “People consider dessert as a part of meals,but we eat sweets only during festivals. Chillies,however,are our staple.” Despite having spent over a decade in the city,his one meal consists of bhakri and chillies.

Bhonsale currently manages the Vile Parle branch of Purepur Kolhapur,a restaurant known for authentic Kolhapuri cuisine. He sources all its ingredients and masalas from Kolhapur directly. The most popular dish at the eatery,famous for its pungent non-vegetarian preparations,is the kharda. And true to the lifestyle in Kolhapur,the restaurant does not serve any dessert.

However,not all regions of Maharashtra enjoy a spicy treat. The cuisine from coastal regions is mostly tempered with coconut,dry or fresh,explains Arundhati Patkar,a housewife from Mumbai. Until a few years ago,she used to get her stock of fresh red chilli powder from Lalbaug at the beginning of summers every year.

Once in the market,with the fresh produce laid out with the vendors,the best way to judge the potency of a chilli is by its aroma and by gauging the heat the crop is producing. “You can experience palpable heat if you put your hand inside a sack of very fiery chillies,” says Solomon.

This is also the reason why in the older days,Maharashtrians would not allow a pregnant woman to consume the spice. “It was believed to lead to a miscarriage,” explains Jyoti Palkar,a 74-year-old housewife. While people no longer believe so,the belief that chillies,combined with lemon and a black thread,can ward off evil still persists among most Hindu communities. Despite being a chilli vendor,ironically,Parmar hangs the omen at the entrance too. He laughs at the suggestion before explaining,“By themselves,chillies are only a helpless flavouring,they can be harmed by the devil too.”