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Textile Tradition

Delhi-based designer Pranavi Kapur’s collection of separates in Mumbai includes some that are restored while others are made using multiple textile techniques.

Delhi-based designer Pranavi Kapur’s collection of separates in Mumbai includes some that are restored while others are made using multiple textile techniques.

Pranavi Kapur was in school when she first engaged with textiles. “In 1971,I travelled to Hyderabad where I worked with the Banjaras and helped them showcase and retail their work on fabric at the Cottage Industries,” says the Delhi-based designer. The incident served as a precursor to her long involvement with traditional Indian crafts. Today,the designer is known for her work in reviving textile traditions,for which she won the National Award for Fashion Design and Textile Preservation in 1999,presented by NIFT and the textile industry.

Although a regular in the Mumbai circuit where she showcases her works at least twice a year,Kapur’s latest exhibition,titled “Threads of Identity”,is on at The Fine Art Company in Bandra West,up till March 13 as part of India Design Week. A mixed bag of saris,odhanis and salwars,the works will then be on display at the India Design Forum (IDF) on March 15 and 16 at the National Centre of Performing Arts,Nariman Point.

While some of her designs are restored,the others are known for the use of multiple textile techniques in creating new designs. “So an ikat loom from Andhra Pradesh will be handed over to the Khatris of Bhuj for bandhani and then,the most nimble fingers from Bengal will embroider it,” she says.

The designer,however,isn’t formally trained in either design or textile craft. Her romance with textiles began early,her involvement is close to 25 years old. She vividly remembers her maternal grandfather and mother impeccably dressed in the most exquisite khadi. “My mother’s heirloom included khadi salwars with fine phulkari embroidery,” she says. Some of the pieces will be showcased at IDF.

Her designs focus on contemporary cuts. She has restored salwars acquired from her mother’s family as trousers. Her odhanis are often paired with contemporary styled-clothes.

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