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Journalism of Courage
Botticino is named after Pietra di Botticino,the Italian marble that has been used extensively throughout the hotel. Botticino should have been named after Vetro instead; it is gastronomically an unabashed replication of the erstwhile Italian restaurant at the Oberoi,Nariman Point. Chef Emanuele Lattanzi came up with the menu at Botticino in the last few months of his tenure with the Oberoi group. This is visibly reflected in the details the menu at Botticino has the same font as Vetros menu did and serves a similar bread basket to Vetros. All of this isnt entirely bad,given that the food at Vetro was (and at Botticino is) excellent; Botticino simply isnt as good an overall offering despite the relatively lower prices.
The main reason for this is a lack of character the restaurant is predominantly beige and has some purple thrown in,but this neutral look isnt anything as good as Vetro was in aesthetic appeal. Botticino doesnt stand out from 022 (the hotels all day-dining restaurant) in décor; it also has tables laid out on decks that overlook 022.
Despite the design flaws,the restaurant is gastronomically worth numerous visits especially for the target clientele of executives working in the financial hub. The menu retains old favourites; the carpaccio,ravioli,crespelle,risotto,lamb rack and steak are just as they were at Vetro. The grilled quail was agreeable but not notable; the baked cheese and aragula salad with grilled white asparagus was a divine symphony. The pappardelle pasta with lamb stew was unbalanced as it had insufficient stew,leaving us parched. The pan fried seafood platter gorgeously allowed the flavour of each fish to shine through. This was slightly out-done by the lamb; it was crisp on the outside yet tender and juicy at the core.
Botticino copies Vetros flaw of serving delicate tiramisu with a berry sorbet; the tiramisu on its own would be the best in this city if it had a trace of requisite alcohol. The only unique feature of Botticino is their selection of grappa,with a designated seating area for consuming the after-dinner brandy from creatively designed bottles by Alexander.
Botticino will offer a very good meal; we wonder whether it will cannibalise an already niche market when Vetro re-opens at the Oberoi. Korgaokar sheepishly agrees that they may need to provide a differing offering once Vetro opens; however,their Chef Vikas Vichares designation of Senior Kitchen Executive says it all.
Botticino,Trident,Bandra Kurla,G Block,Bandra Kurla Complex. Meal for two: Rs 3,600 (without alcohol).
Tel: 6672 7777
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