On the menu

End of wine protectionism
MAHARASHTRA,the biggest wine-producing state in India,has,since 2001,enjoyed subsidies in the form of excise waivers from the state government thus giving it an unfair advantage over imported wines. Today,even though duties have been reduced to more manageable levels,excise waivers give an unfair advantage to Indian producers in a key segment — cheap wines (under USD 10 or Rs 500). While Rajeev Samant,CEO of Sula Vineyards,doesn’t expect this protectionism to end anytime soon,he does admit that “we have to be ready for that and prepare for it. We will face tough competition,but our wines are not lacking quality”. While there are numerous new wine houses that produce cheap wine,most of these are terrible and should scare off newcomers if they don’t already. With wine,as with sushi,cheap but good offerings are key to widespread appreciation and higher demand; ending or at least reducing protectionism will go a long way in doing so.

Boogie nights
INSOMNIA at the Taj shut down a few years back,Poison shut down this year and Czar at the InterContinental,Marine Drive,is set to down shutters. This essentially leaves revellers with a small number of nightclubs and even fewer that are legally allowed to stay open till 3 am. “We shut Insomnia due to the disturbance caused to resident guests,especially in the lobby area. Instead,we have recently obtained a late licence till 3 am for Starboard,which offers an energetic atmosphere with live music,” says Firdaus Rana,Director of Sales,Taj Mahal Palace & Towers,thus confirming that nightclubs have pretty much been replaced by lounges and bars. Most bars that stay open till late flout the law as do so unofficially; this is therefore completely unreliable by nature and on most weekends one can never be sure about drinking beyond 1.30 am. Let’s hope nightclubs make a comeback this year; while we are wishing,licences to stay open till 5 am as well in 2010?

Authenticity,please
THE last year saw a lot of openings,especially in the latter half of the year. Most of these,though,were either a fusion of décor concepts from different cultures or worse,cuisines. Which is just as well,as fusion food combines different cuisines and in a way shows maturity — but how much did we even know about each cuisine before fusion came along? Some restaurants admirably take the best from each cuisine; others,however,reek of trying to please everyone by incorporating too many things. There is an undeniable place for a contemporary take on food,but we wish it were the icing on top of a cake of authenticity. Some restaurants,such as Don Giovanni,Thai Pavilion at the Taj President and San Qi at the Four Seasons,have flourished despite the impression that authenticity does not work.

Get baked
FOR all the delicatessens and patisseries that have mushroomed all over the city,especially in Bandra,they’ve achieved competency over bread,sandwiches and certainly chocolate-based commodities like brownies. However,not many can claim to serve a good pie,quiche or savoury tart. Even with dessert,a majority are chocolate based and at best you might find a good cheesecake. It is close to impossible to find a good mille-feuille,fruit tart or even the humble éclair. “Despite the number of options in Bandra,you still will not get a decent variety or good quality unless you go to a hotel gourmet store,” says Deepali Parikh,a resident of Khar. We hope in 2010 someone,preferably French,opens a charming little café which reminds us of the Seine and not the closest sewer.