Around Town: South Bombay’s beloved Irani bakery Yazdani isn’t shutting down; baton to be passed on to 28-year-old Zyraa Zend

Perzon Zend represents the third generation inheriting the iconic Yazdani Bakery

Yazdani Bakery’s story dates back to the 1950s, when Merwan Zend Kabir, Perzon’s grandfather, acquired a share in an Irani restaurant at the very spot Yazdani now stands. Later, his elder son, Zend Merwan Zend—Perzon’s father—purchased the remaining share, and together, they established Yazdani Bakery & Restaurant, now a Mumbai institution.

However, whispers of closure gained traction in recent years, particularly after the Covid-19 pandemic. Since the passing of Zend Merwan Zend and his younger brother Parvez Irani in 2021—both of whom were iconic figures at the bakery—the Zend family hasn’t maintained a permanent presence at the bakery. Trusted long-time employees now man the counter, and dining services remain suspended. Adding fuel to the speculation is a recent show-cause notice issued to Yazdani and 286 other bakeries, mandating a switch to cleaner, greener fuels such as electricity or PNG. The notice warns that non-compliance could result in closures.

“The Covid-19 pandemic led many of our employees to return to their hometowns, and they never came back. At Yazdani, we use a special custom-made blend of Irani tea that requires precise brewing and a skilled hand. We would rather not serve it than have it done poorly,” explained Zend, adding that the bakery’s ownership has recently transitioned, now shared between him, his brothers Zorast and Zyros, and his cousin Tirandas, the son of Pervez Irani.

He further elaborated on the challenges posed by the government notice. “If the notice is implemented, all wood-fired bakeries will be forced to shut down. A one-month timeframe is far too short for such a significant transition, and most bakeries won’t be able to afford the new ovens, especially without government subsidies akin to those provided for solar panels. The immediate need is to get a stay order, prevent bakery closures, and ensure that the common man isn’t deprived of his daily bread. We are confident that our political leaders will find a win-win outcome,” he said.

Foreigners enjoying mawa cake at Yazdani Bakery

Highlighting the irony, he added, “Across the world, people are preserving these bakeries and celebrating them as artisans, but we aren’t. We’re going back to wood-fired pizzas while killing our own heritage bakeries.”

The beginning

Established in 1950 at a site that once housed a Japanese bank, Yazdani Bakery, with its sky-blue exterior and red-painted roof, though now peeling, remain iconic. Inside, the bakery retains its nostalgic charm with vintage posters, family photographs, a silver Urban Heritage Award from 2007, and a timeless ambience. The blackboard menu outside continues the tradition, currently promoting French onion bites with the distinct sweetness of caramelised onions. A new addition is a wall adorned with artwork by various artists who have captured Yazdani’s essence and gifted their creations to the owners.

“The red rafters you see were always here, perhaps because this was once a Japanese bank. As for the blue walls, I’m not sure why, but I do know that sky blue was my father’s favourite colour,” shared Perzon Zend.

Legend has it that Merwan Zend Kabir, the founder of Yazdani, began his career as an apprentice at the legendary Rising Sun Bakery near Alexandria Cinema in Golpitha. This bakery used traditional methods of bread-making, similar to sourdough. The technique involved kneading dough in khamir, an Iranian method where a lump of dough from the previous day’s batch acts as a natural ferment for the next.

“My grandfather was a very hardworking man,” said Zend. “He worked his way up to become a junior partner at Rising Sun Bakery. After selling his share, he cycled around the city searching for a space to open his bakery. That’s when he found this spot.”

Baking has always been a family tradition at Yazdani, with each member contributing to its menu over the decades.

Inside Yazdani Bakery

“My father created the jumbo sandwich bread, which was supplied to restaurants and hotels for their sandwiches. Parvez Kako invented the big ladi pav, while their brother Rashid Kako, a pharmacist by profession, introduced multigrain bread 20 years ago along with gingerbread. Zyros, who studied baking at Sophia College and later taught there, developed focaccia bread, French rolls, baguettes, and fortune cookies. I introduced olive and herb toast, rolls, and Brun toast,” Zend proudly shared.

The future

Will dining services resume at Yazdani Bakery, and who will take charge of the restaurant? “Dining will restart. How soon? That, I can’t say,” shared Perzon Zend. He added that as Zoroastrians, they worship fire, and their bakery, which uses fire, is akin to a place of worship for them.

“Our bakery has always operated, even during the riots of the 1992-93 when the entire city came to a standstill. We ensured that no one who came to us left empty-handed! That commitment is why we told our father that this bakery should be inherited by all of us, not just one person,” he explained.

Looking ahead, Zend shared his vision for the bakery’s future. While he would love to visit Yazdani every evening to chat with customers—a tradition he and the generations before him enjoyed—the plan is to pass on the legacy to the fourth generation.

“My niece, Zyraa Zend (daughter of Zyros and the brand manager of Fortune Cookies India) has studied baking and is currently working at a fine-dining restaurant in Goa (Marai by Malini Akerkar and her daughter, Amalia). She will be the one to carry forward the Yazdani legacy under the mentorship of her father and masterbaker, Zyros,” Zend revealed.

Will the next generation preserve Yazdani’s old-world charm? “They better do,” Zend replied firmly, his tone underscoring his seriousness. “Things will be spruced up, but only as much as needed,” he added.