Humble Pie

Every morning before daybreak,there is an undeniable buzz at the Dadar vegetable market that is intoxicating to those fascinated by food.

Every morning before daybreak,there is an undeniable buzz at the Dadar vegetable market that is intoxicating to those fascinated by food. While it might seem chaotic to an outsider with the daunting din and a lack of space to stand for even a second,there is an implicit order here that is admirable as thousands of kilos of produce are traded each morning. It is therefore the perfect setting to meet Ananda Solomon,Executive Chef of the Taj President,to talk about the national award he recently received from the Ministry of Tourism for being one of two best chefs in India.

Receiving such an award would be special for most chefs; Solomon,however,maintains that I respect all recognition in its own way,but the appreciation of my guests is more important than awards. At 52,Solomon has been a chef for over 30 years and has won several awards in international competitions,but remains remarkably modest. His modesty is also reflected in the fact that Solomon is garrulous when interviewed about food,but vague and reserved when talking about himself.

Despite having contractors who source fruits and vegetables for the hotel,Solomon visits the market practically everyday and we wonder why,after all these years,he feels the need to visit the market so often. You have to watch out,vendors can be dishonest. You have to be alert and make sure you get what you want, Solomon reasons. The contractors find me difficult because I come and choose the vegetables at the market often,so they have to supply what I select regardless of the market price, he says.

As we walk past the different sections that are implicitly demarcated,Solomon shows us different varieties of green chillies. There are different breeds, he explains,asking us to hold,smell and rub each type against our palm to feel the heat and pungency of each chilli. Thangam Philip,the late principal of the reputed Institute of Hospitality Management in Dadar used to take Solomon to this market to teach him about each ingredient,something that has stayed with him. Whatever I am today is because I have been moulded by her, he states. She taught him to value precision and excelling over success. To be precise,Solomon explains,it is essential to know the ingredients you are using. I used to be quite interested in knowing where particular vegetables came from.

With the way Solomon handles each fruit or vegetable and talks with vendors,one would think he has been doing this all his life and was born to be a chef,but this wasnt the case. Solomon was born in Mangalore and grew up in Pune,but became a chef by chance; I wanted to get into the National Defence academy but was unsuccessful. he rues. He moved to Mumbai to study hotel management at IHM and maintains that If youre dedicated and passionate,no trade is difficult for you. He also believes that,while ingredients are key to good quality food,it doesnt just end at that. One part of being a good chef is to procure the right ingredients and the second is to procure technical intelligence.

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