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This is an archive article published on August 8, 2013

DIAMANTAIRE EXTRAORDINAIRE

Nirav Modi’s jewellery made the cut internationally and will shortly enter the Indian market

In November 2010,a media shy Nirav Modi catapulted into the international jewellery scene by becoming the only Indian jeweller so far to have his creation featured on the cover of Christie’s annual Hong Kong auction catalogue. The featured Golconda Lotus necklace eventually fetched $3 million (Rs 16.29 crore). The Mumbai-based jewellery designer,however,outdid himself at last year’s Sotheby’s auction in Hong Kong,where his Riviere of Perfection—a necklace with 36 flawless white diamonds together weighing 88.88 carats—was sold for $5.1 million (Rs 27 crore).

Modi — a third-generation diamantaire—has enjoyed unprecedented success on the world stage. However,he is now looking

at wowing the Indian market. To achieve the same,the jewellery designer — who set up his brand three years ago—recently had his first-ever fashion show as part of India International Jewellery Week (IIJW) in Mumbai,which concludes today. “The organisers approached us and the show gave us an opportunity to show our work,” says Modi,who showed on Sunday night.

The collection showcased at the event comprised a total of 15 sets from Nirav Modi’s stunning ranges—a segment inspired

by iconic motifs of the Mughal miniature school of art (the Mughal collection),a range that draws from floral motifs (Fluire line) and one based on the Art Deco movement of the 1950s (Sunburst line) among others. Modi notes that he

gets his cues from nature,art and his immediate surroundings.

Functionality too scores high on his list. “For instance,when I saw my daughters wear stretchable bangles,albeit the costume jewellery variety,it made me want to create a range of elastic gold bangles that would custom fit all sizes.

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It took us two years to source the brilliant-cut diamonds but it was worth the wait as the resulting product reflects

superior construction and attention to detail,” he says.

What sets 42-yearold Modi apart in the competitive industry is his access to rare diamonds. Born into a family of diamond

traders,earlier based in Belgium,he learned the ropes of the trade. Modi then worked with the Gitanjali Group in the US. Apart from gaining access to the American market through his acquisitions of jewellery companies such as Sandberg & Sikorski (which owns the bridal jewellery brand A Jaffe),he put in place a network of marketing

offices and factories,and liaised with Russian diamond miner Alrosa. Today,his company Firestar Diamond is the sole distributor of Rio Tinto’s Argyle pink diamonds in South Asia. “Given our control over sourcing,cutting and manufacturing,designing exquisite pieces became a possibility,” says Modi. The diamantaire has also patented certain diamond

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cuts— Endless Cut,where diamonds are cut and set seamlessly to create a continuous halo,and Ainra Cut,where diamond links replace the metal clasps traditionally used in jewellery.

This access,coupled with a passion for innovation,has translated into international success,the most recent achievement being a chance to participate in a private exhibition at London’s prestigious Kensington Palace last November. “It was an exclusive showing of pink Argyle diamond jewellery that attracted players of international repute,including China’s Chow Tai Fook jewellery and London’s Graff Diamonds,” says Modi. His entry for this year’s Sotheby’s auction in Hong Kong will include a 10-carat fancy pink pear ring and a pair of diamond earrings studded with two carat

vivid fancy yellow diamonds that are among the rarest in the world. In India,Modi intends to open his first store in Delhi by this year end and one in Mumbai in 2014. “We will have gold jewellery in agold-loving country but the creations

will always be diamond centric,” he says.

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