Bonjour Mumbai

The menu isn’t extensive,says Naïna — it has about seven appetisers and as many mains and five desserts — but is just right to introduce patrons to authentic French cuisine,where gastronomic food is married with the bistro concept. The concept,she adds,attempts to rid French food of the snobbish reputation that it has earned over the years. “It is not the kind you get at the high-end and Michelin star restaurants of France,but more the kind people prepare at home,” she says.

The appetisers on the menu are mostly salads that promise to bring together some unusual flavours. Take for instance,lentils with comfit and lemon flan. The Salade Midinette is prepared with chicken,green apples and celery in parsley mayonnaise and topped with pomegranate. A bite of the chicken reveals a surprisingly refreshing citrus flavour,which the pomegranate complements well.

The main course has a few classics such as ravioli,a ratatouille dish and the French toast,among others. Since Indians are most familiar with only the breakfast version of the latter,we opted for the savoury variety on their mains menu,called Pain Perdu aux Tomates Sechees,ail et Olives Noires. It arrived as a tiny portion of confit garlic,sundried tomatoes and black olives on a slice of bread fried in butter and topped with olive oil. It was flavourful,but very rich.

The French are known for their pastry because few others can get the layered puff pastry right. So there were high expectations attached to the mille feuille that we ordered for dessert. But not only was the pastry average but it had actually gone soft. With the crunch lost,it almost blended with the vanilla crème filling. It left us wondering if we should have ordered the meringue and custard or chocolate mousse.

In all,however,the experience was pleasing,although not outstanding. The key reason could be the lack of quality ingredients,an aspect that can easily ruin the French cuisine,known for its nuanced flavours. “Staying true to the bistro concept,we are trying to source our ingredients locally as opposed to importing them in order to ensure freshness,” explains Naïna. It is tough,she admits,adding,“We have made changes to recipes. For instance,we have added figs to the salad with tomatoes,rocket leaves and mozzarella so that the lack of flavour in the tomatoes isn’t prominent. The Indian produce is getting better and over time,we are sure,we won’t face such problems.”