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If his minimalist jackets with big,trapezoidal collars and high-waisted trousers twisted with a classic bow ruled the runway at the India Fashion Week,off the ramp Rajesh Prataps look book for fall-winter 2009 is equally wow-worthy. Presented in the form of posters rolled up in a scroll,this bends tradition. The rather mandatory description of each garment is missing. The palette is restricted to black and white,but the ensemble ceases to be the focus,with emphasis on the mood.
The look book is no longer a humble guide to a designer’s collection. It is often a designer creation in itself. David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore have tucked their black book for fall-winter in woollen and quilted bags; Shantanu and Nikhil Mehra have put details of their spring-summer 2009 Ladakh collection in a scroll placed inside a paper bag. Shantanu-Nikhil had earlier turned the marketplace into a set for their look book for spring-summer 2008 with models posing in a supermarket and a paan shop. Big Ethel of Archie comics not only inspired Kiran Uttam Ghoshs autumn-winter 2007 collection Ethelectic,but also led the designer to produce a corresponding look book in the comic format. It was fun. The look book shows what the collection is about and one should experiment with it. With Ethelectic collection,it seemed most natural to have it in the form of a comic, says Ghosh. In contrast,her fall-winter 2009 collection Frugality is the new black has a one-page look book. While the text explains the theme,attached to it is a jute cord strung with photographs of models dressed in Ghoshs designs. This was in keeping with the theme of recession. Some people appreciated it and others did not get it. I did not mind the mixed response, says Ghosh.
A look book is an organised display of the collection that showcases what ensembles look like when worn. What we sent out is more of a look communication book. This is more of imagery and communicates the mood and feel of the collection, says Pratap,as he describes his poster book that has Tamara Moss and Prabuddha Dasgupta modelling for the photographer Bharat Sikka. Shot in Sikkas Navjivan Vihar home and its neighbourhood,this has Tamara Moss lying in the lawn in a jacket and sequinned trousers. On another page,she has her back towards the camera. The details of the attire are not even visible in some shots,but that does not bother Pratap. Over the last few months he has sent its copies to clients and stores across the world,including France and Japan. Black dominates the collection and so the decision to keep the book also black and white, says Sikka.
This is unlike the international trend,where look books dont go for a makeover. Prataps mentor Abraham is keen to experiment with his look book,but unlike Pratap he is not game for a radical change. The photographs need to show details of the garment and the silhouette, says Abraham. His fall-winter 2009 look book will come in a designer bag,but the format of the book is traditional. The photographs shot in a studio are accompanied with information like the code assigned to the garment,fabric used and a short description. The buyers seek this information, says Abraham. Nitin Bal Chauhan goes a step further. His fall-winter 2009 look book that showcases the line Conditions Apply Part II is arty and also has the price of each garment in rupees,dollars and euros.
Recession might have hit everything in the designer world,but not the look book. Producing a look book is not an expensive proposition. It is more about conceptualisation, says Rohit Gandhi,as he readies to design his line for next summer. The look book will follow.
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