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This is an archive article published on August 25, 2013

Playing It Down

Designer Manish Malhotra opened the winter-festive edition of Lakme Fashion Week 2013 in Mumbai with a collection inspired by Rajasthan and Kutch

Less than a month ago,he closed the couture week in Delhi with an ornate collection that celebrated the glamour of the ’30s. But at the Lakme Fashion Week’s opening show,Manish Malhotra chose to play it down. For his collection for the winter-festive edition of the event — currently underway at Grand Hyatt,Mumbai — the designer instead chose to revel in the “lightness of being”,with a festive collection that drew from Rajasthan and Kutch.

Guests were greeted by an all-white runway that was divided vertically in two by a curtain of cotton threads. Even as the song Manja from the film Kai Po Che! played in the background to set the mood for the show,models walked down the ramp in sets of twos,wearing strikingly similar outfits,emerging from behind the curtain. The resulting visuals gave the impression of a mirror image that reinforced Malhotra’s theme: Reflections.

Particularly eye-catching was the mirror-work embellishment that was paired beautifully with Malhotra’s favourite: custom-created zari work from Kashmir. In keeping with the collection’s Rajasthani and Kutch influences,Malhotra juxtaposed deep green,fuschia pink,royal blue and mustard yellow in a clever play of colour blocking. Limited use of embellishment meant the focus remained on the silhouettes.

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We especially liked the introduction of newer concepts,such as the ghagra pants and the koti tops (boleros). While the former is a fusion of the sharara and the classic pant,the top is Malhotra’s take on the traditional Rajasthani vest silhouette; at the show,he teamed them with saris and ghagras. Other silhouettes for women included anarkalis,ghagras,tunics,jackets and palazzos.

Menswear chiefly comprised kurtas,dhotis,bandhgalas and churidars. All in all,this collection — crafted in silk,chiffon,georgette,velvet and net — threw up interesting options for pre- and post-wedding celebrations. While his clothes on the ramp were understated,his Bollywood fan brigade was represented by the likes of Karan Johar,Kajol,Karisma Kapoor,Lara Dutta and Shabana Azmi,among others. This was one show where the star power outshone the embroidery on the ramp.

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