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This is an archive article published on April 9, 2009

Craft Apart

When it comes to styles of jewellery,India truly has so much to boast of.

Filigree gets a contemporary twist,courtesy jewellery design students

When it comes to styles of jewellery,India truly has so much to boast of. There’s Jadau,Thewa,Meenakari and more…Ironically,for a country that is one of the biggest consumers of gold in the world,with revenues currently estimated at over $13 billion,traditional techniques of jewellery-making are dying a slow death. In an endeavour to revive these vanishing arts and craft and also to make the present generation aware,the Jewellery Design and Technology Institute (JDTI) rolled out a special workshop on ‘Filigree’ craft at their institute in Sector 35. “Filigree is a jewellery manufacturing technique popular in Orissa but due to lack of skilled craftsmen and no promotions,it’s fast fading away,” mentioned the institute’s CEO,Ritu Malik.

Interestingly,as Malik explained by way of a presentation,the art of Filigree was very popular with the Romans and Greek. “What’s more,this art was also found in the Middle-East and Asian regions. Cuttack today is the largest centre of production of filigree work in India,” added Malik.

To give jewellery design students a better idea of the art,JDTI brought in a master craftsman Rattan,who took the students through the workshop. A rather delicate art,Filigree involves patiently twisting threads of gold and silver and then soldering them together. “There’s a lot of twisting,plaiting and curling of wires involved,” explained faculty member Roopsi. These fine wires are then flattened and bent into various patterns to make both jewellery as well as artefacts. The students of the institute too got a chance to work on the technique and presented a potpourri of styles. “As you’ll notice,students used the traditional filigree technique combined with unconventional materials to create designs with a contemporary look,” remarked Malik,as we noticed pretty earrings,rings,neck pieces on show. “Our aim to hold this workshop was to instil amongst students respect for traditional crafts and craftsmen as well as help them get a hands-on experience,” Ritu added. JDTI now plans to hold similar workshops and short-term summer courses based on enameling,engraving,costume jewellery etc.

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