CLOTHES THAT SPOKE

AM:PM

Lux Alright: Called the Portobello Affair by designers Priyanka and Ankur Modi,the collection had luxe fabrics. This long coral dress has an odd pattern and is replete with intricate embroidery using old threads

RAHUL REDDY

BLACK BEAT : Unsung heroes,people who worked for change but were never celebrated on the forefront,were Reddy’s inspiration. Models walked out in severe black looks,accessorised with combat boots and umbrellas. Bright pinks were juxtaposed with tonal greys

Pankaj & Nidhi

Homage : Inspired from the Japanese craft of sashiko no donza worn by the fishermen tribe of Awaji Islands

RAHUL REDDY

BLACK BEAT : Unsung heroes,people who worked for change but were never celebrated on the forefront,were Reddy’s inspiration. Models walked out in severe black looks,accessorised with combat boots and umbrellas. Bright pinks were juxtaposed with tonal greys

ABRAHAM & THAKORE

MUSE: How menswear influences women’s garments — a sturdy idea often mounted in international fashion was deconstructed for India through the sari and other wide shaped silhouettes. We love this the best

Beyond Borders

Sabyasachi could declare a war against cliché. Words like splendid,eclectic,mesmerising,flamboyant,ethereal are hard to hear and wear as descriptions of his heavy (yes,literally by the kilos) embellished,textured garments. The press release of his finale collection at the WIFW did not do the designer any justice. King of Kitsch,it called him. Oops. And we thought kitsch is fast becoming a nobody.

Vintage is one of Sabyasachi’s favourite ideas. The others are books and spectacles. This collection had all of that. Champagne-coloured sunglasses,red roses in the hair,embroidered skirts that behaved like ghaghras,cholis with the body language of bikinis,muchness,sexiness and unbridled colour. Inspired by corsetry and the underwear trends of the 1950s,the clothes lit up what looked like a library from Harry Potter. What Sabyasachi needs now is a spartan fashion show staging,with Vidya Balan in an unbleached khadi sari with no borders. Less will have to be more because more has become much.