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This is an archive article published on May 6, 2016

Try Nimona, Sagpaita and other lost recipes of Kannauj

These vegetarian dishes from the rustic kitchens of UP are being revived by a Mumbai-based home chef at a pop up at the end of the month.

The thali served at the recent "Lost Recipes of Kannauj" pop-up. (Photo: Upasana Shukla Maheshwari) The thali served at the recent “Lost Recipes of Kannauj” pop-up. (Photo: Upasana Shukla Maheshwari)

Uttar Pradesh has a rich culinary history influenced by Mughal rule. While the Awadhi and Mughlai cuisines of the state have been well documented, the vegetarian recipes of Kannauj, a city which was once even the capital of the state (in the late 4th century) are slowly disappearing from our kitchens, says Upasana Shukla Maheshwari, a Mumbai-based home chef and baker. While Maheshwari grew up in Lucknow, her parents spent most of their lives in Hardoi,a town in district Kannauj, and by holding on to Kannauj’s cooking traditions, Maheshwari is also reconnecting with her family history. She says, “Many of these dishes were cooked by my grandmothers when I was very young. I got to taste all these dishes during my wedding [in 2013] where the cooks were from Kannauj. The food was so tasty that I actually sat and watched some of the dishes being made — right between my wedding rituals.”

Last month, Maheshwari held her first Kannauj pop-up in the city after having tested recipes for over two years. “In my pop up, I tried to showcase the actual celebratory food, which is not just shahi paneer or dum aloo. Somehow now when you think of North Indian vegetarian you can’t go beyond paneer and dal makhani. You don’t get some of these dishes in restaurants because people feel that they are too pedestrian. Many dishes in my thali were a regular feature in weddings, but not any more.” And so, the pop-up “Lost Recipes Of Kannauj” was born.

Dishes made of shelled peas, greens, four kinds of dal in one dish, and of course, amchur powder – a key ingredient in Kannauj cooking – made it to the pop-up. Says Maheshwari, “Many of the recipes don’t involve tomatoes as a souring agent. This is because tomatoes are not essentially Indian. Flavour was imparted through curd or amchur (dried mango powder). Most of the dishes also don’t use onion and garlic. The food is simple but extremely flavourful.”

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Most of the recipes that Maheshwari has used for her pop-up are her father’s. She adds, “He’s a great cook and some of them have been corrected by my mother. I feel if we go back and search our roots, we are sure to find a goldmine.” Maheshwari plans to host another pop-up paying tribute to Kannauj by the end of the month, but if you want to give to give Kannauj cuisine a shot, try some of the recipes that she has shared.

Sagpaita
Serves 4

Sagpaita is a dal made with greens. (Photo: Upasana Shukla Maheshwari) Sagpaita is a dal made with greens. (Photo: Upasana Shukla Maheshwari)

Sagpaita essentially is a dal made using greens. You can make it with any combination of dals and any greens like bathua, methi (fenugreek) or spinach.

Ingredients
50g- Arhar dal (Tur)
50g- Split moong dal (with skin)
50g- Yellow moong dal (washed)
50g- Masoor dal (washed)
250g- Spinach
2 tbsp- Ghee
1 pinch- Asafoetida
½ tsp- Cumin seeds
3 to 4- Green chillies, chopped
2 inches- Ginger, finely chopped
5 to 6 cloves- Garlic, finely chopped (optional, though enhances flavour)
2 to 3- Tomatoes, finely chopped
½ tsp- Turmeric powder
1 tsp- Red chilli powder
1/4 tsp- Garam masala
Salt to taste
A few chopped coriander leaves for garnishing

Method
* Mix all dals. Wash well and soak in water for 1 hour.

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* Clean the spinach cut the stems, drain excess water and chop finely.

* Pressure cook the dals and spinach with 3 cups of water and salt. Cook on a low flame after the first whistle. Cook for 3 whistles.

* Add ghee in a kadhai. Add cumin seeds and asafoetida.

* Once it starts spluttering, add ginger garlic green chillies and sauté it.

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* Add the tomatoes and all the masalas. Saute it for 2 minutes.

* Once the masalas are cooked, add the palak and dal mixture to it with a litle bit of water and boil for 5-7 minutes.

* Adjust the thickness of the dal to your liking. You can temper with ghee, cumin seeds, asafoetida and red chilli powder just before serving if you wish.

* Serve hot garnished with freshly chopped coriander.

Nimona
Serves 4

Nimona is a traditional chickpea curry made in Kannauj. (Photo: Upasana Shukla Maheshwari) Nimona is a traditional chickpea curry made in Kannauj. (Photo: Upasana Shukla Maheshwari)

Ingredients
1 kg- Shelled peas, finely ground
1 cup- Finely sliced onion, deep fried
1 pinch- Asafoetida
2 inch- Ginger, finely chopped
4- Garlic cloves, finely chopped
2- Bay leaves
2 tbsp- Ghee
1 tbsp- Coriander powder
1 tbsp- Chilli powder
½ tsp- Turmeric powder
1 tsp- Cumin seeds
5 pods- Green cardamom
5- Cloves
½ inch- Cinnamon stick
3 tbsp- Tomato puree
Salt to taste
1 ltr- Water
Enough oil to deep fry onions
3 tbsp- Oil
A few freshly chopped coriander leaves

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Method
* In a kadhai, add ghee. Once heated add the asafoetida and the ground peas. Fry till all the moisture evaporates and the peas start sticking to kadhai- keep aside once done.

* Grind ginger, garlic, cloves, cardamom, cumin seeds and cinnamon with a little water to make a paste and keep aside.

* Grind the deep fried onions to a paste and keep aside.

* Add 3 tbsp oil to a pan. Add the bay leaves to it once it’s hot.

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* Add the ginger garlic paste to it and sauté it for 2 mins. Then add the fried onion paste to it and sauté again for 1 minute.

* Add the tomato puree, coriander powder, chilli powder, and turmeric and sauté for another minute.

* Once the masalas are cooked and release an aroma, add the the ground and fried peas to it. Sauté everything together for 2 minutes. Add salt and 1 ltr water to it. Let it cook for around 10-15 minutes.

* Adjust salt. Serve hot garnished with freshly chopped coriander.

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