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Dipti Nagpaul-DSouza visits Mumbais famous landmark where Kiran Raos forthcoming film Dhobi Ghat was shot
If one steps out of Mahalaxmi station in Mumbai towards the Saat Rasta junction,a soapy whiff amidst the citys otherwise musty odour compels one to look around. The sight that meets the eyes is unusual. Beyond the many layers of multi-hued clothes hung out to dry on the dense mesh of washing lines are row upon rows of 4×4 sq ft concrete washing pens. Men standing in knee-deep water bring down wet clothes,brought to them to launder,on the washing stone. It creates a dull sound that is often drowned by the passing trains. It is also in this milieu that Pratik Babbars character Munna is introduced in Kiran Raos film Dhobi Ghat,named after this famous Mumbai landmark.
The film,which releases on January 21,has the actor playing a dhobi and explores his life beyond the washing pen. Sandwiched between the railway lines and a giant skyscraper in Mumbais latest realty hotspot,it is the irony that the dhobi ghat represents which made Rao consider it for the title. The title is metaphoric for the city where many kinds of lives come together, she explains.
Built in 1890 by the British,the dhobi ghat at Mahalaxmi is the only BMC-operated open laundry in the city and is spread across close to 10 acres. With 731 washing stones,it provides employment to almost 10,000 people. Every owner pays a monthly rent of Rs 293 to the municipality,the non-payment of which for thrice consecutively months can cause the cancellation of their license. However,most dhobis working here are carrying on their family legacy,such as Suresh Maati,a third-generation dhobi. Its the Parsi community that helped us prosper, he recounts. They supported us financially and morally,often funding the education of our children. The business comes from companies,hotels,export clothing manufacturing units,laundries and households from across Mumbai, says Khiladi Nirmal,a dhobi.
The birds-eye view aside,the community is strongly-knit and outsiders are seldom welcome. But with appropriate permissions from their local association,Dhobi Kalyan & Audhyogik Vikas Co-op Society,one can find an entry in this near-fortress. Designed almost like a jigsaw puzzle,the dhobi ghat is also lined with up to 3,000 hutments for dhobis. For a set-up this massive,it is surprising that the city provides dhobi ghat with 24-hour supply of water. The drainage system too seems immaculate. It was not always so, explains Santosh G Kanojia,the chairman of the Society,With the underworld thriving in our neighbourhood,business began to wane. Encroachers and land sharks took over,sewage system deteriorated and water supplies suffered,and the government continued to overlook our plight.
It was not until early 2000s that the association managed to free funds reserved for dhobi ghats development. Moderisation is underwayup to 200 washing machines have been installed. But a fully-mechanised dhobi ghat remains a distant dream, sighs Karmesh Mahanta,who does delivery for some of the professional set-ups.
But Kanojia is hopeful. He now sits in a recently-constructed office within the premises,with a computer on his desk the contribution made by Aamir Khan Productions. Many documentaries and Bollywood films are shot here. Scenes from Lage Raho Munnabhai were shot here,as were some from Hisss. The place makes for good cinematography and that brings us funds.
Aamir Khan had invited us personally for a special screening. We had hired a bus to attend it. Its this love that makes us feel wanted in the city, says Kanojia.
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