State of Art

I moved to Goa with the firm resolve of writing the Great Indian Novel. That continues to be a work-in-progress,but the writing has just got better over the years. As many creative people from around the world are discovering,Goa makes the perfect setting for creativity. Stuck for an idea,I take long meandering walks by the river,with gulmohar flowers turning the path red in the summer,and loads of little frogs keeping me company in the monsoon. You can rest your eyes on a hundred shades of green in the paddy fields,or turn them to where smoke rises from evening fires and shrouds the trees. There is always the beach to lie on and think up stories in the sun.

During the many hectic years I spent in Mumbai,I rarely,if ever,knew when there was a full moon. Urbanites dont raise their eyes to the sky too often. And if they do,they dont see stars but the orange haze that hangs over big cities. But in Goa everyone knows when a full moon is around the corner. The dogs howl all night.The cats stay out late. The crickets yell their heads off. Even the crabs grow fat. And writers find themselves sitting late at their computers madly trying to get down all that their frenzied brain is seething with. I understood the link between the moon and creativity only when it was demonstrated for me cycle after cycle. Now I fit the full moon into my writing schedule.

Having chucked it all to become a hermit in Goa,you find that you are actually at a great creative intersection. This came home to me when I found myself at a dinner with Amitav Ghosh,Orhan Pamuk,Kiran Desai,Maria Aurora Couto,Mario Miranda and half the writers in town. Two Booker-nominated novels were written in Goa (Ghoshs Sea of Poppies and Damon Galguts The Good Doctor). I wouldnt be surprised if more were in progress right now. A very supportive community exists and there are regular meetings,interactions and discussions.

This community draws on an established and vibrant tradition of literature. The first printing press in Asia was set up here by the Portuguese. Goan literature spans 13 languages. The main language,Konkani,has four different scripts,and Goan writers are known for their contribution to Portuguese literature. For such a tiny state,the literary output is tremendous. Now the Goan writer finds himself having genial discussions about the art of writing with counterparts from around the world. Over a measure of feni,of course.

If,from time to time,you think wistfully of chucking it all up to go and write and paint in Goa,hold on! You dont have to make such drastic decisions. You can now boost your creativity even while on holiday here. Art holidays are the new rage,and you can learn painting,pottery and music,and hang out on the beach.

Several spaces are emerging as the focus of creative activity. Art Escape Goa lines up musicians for a jam session,organises workshops,and this weekend has a graffiti artist painting public space with the help of volunteers and schoolchildren. Monsoon Grey has events through the rains. They run art-appreciation workshops and a film club. Sunapranta is based in a beautifully restored bungalow at Altinho in Panjim. They provide food for thought with regular films,panel discussions and the Mango Tree art school for children. Their events range from circle drumming to sufi dance and mural making. Heritage Jazz organises music in old heritage homes. Once a year,the DD Kosambi Festival of Ideas brings thinkers from across India to the state.

Apart from these,the Anjuna-Baga stretch has its own share of underground creative movements. Last season saw an art bazaar alongside the flea market,where you could buy healing paintings,kundalini art and psychedelic artefacts. It was here that Goa trance was born and went on to rule international dance floors. The notice board at the original German Bakery offers sacred dance classes to music that will enhance your aura. So,in whichever way you want to live a more creatively fulfilling life,its waiting for you right here in Goa.

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