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Journalism of Courage
When i took that annual break to Goa last month, friends in tow, the beaches were all our itinerary had.
Bagha in the north was our first stop but for some reason, even though brimful with out-of-towners like us, it seemed like one big party we had gatecrashed. We were arguing loud and clear about the risks of leaving our footwear unattended when we got our invite. 8220;Don8217;t worry, no one will steal your sandals,8221; a scrawny masseur beamed at us. That one line did the trick. Freed of all fear, we flapped around in the not-so-clean but balmy water. By the time the sun took its final bow, we were in true-blue party mood.
With a trip to Anjuna beach lined up for the next day, our Goa odyssey was playing out along the expected lines when our host suggested a detour to the spice route in the hilly north. Nestled in the emerald vale of Khandepar in Ponda district of north Goa, Pascoal village turned out to be an hour8217;s drive from Panjim that took us past some pretty Portuguese villas, majestic churches, a huge statue of Shivaji and lots of history brought to life by our garrulous driver.
The spice village resort itself arrived in a rush of shiny red anthuriums, yellow halyconias and emerald trees that parted to make way for a dull vermillion band of earth leading to the heart of the plantation.
Spread over 50 acres, part of it on the banks of the Khandepar river, the spice farm, we were told, had undergone several makeovers in the past 20 years. Ermeciana, whose husband Milgres Fernandes owns the farm, told us how till 1982, they used to plant sugarcane, bananas and coconuts. Then, Milgres dumped cane for spices. In five years, the plantation was crowned Goa8217;s best spice farm. Six years on, Pascoal was adjudged the country8217;s second best spice farm. Meanwhile, some adventurous foreigners who came to buy spices from Milgres began requesting him to let them camp on his farm. 8220;It was then that we built two cottages here,8221; recalls Ermeciana.
From every spice in your kitchen to every orchid at the florist, here is God8217;s plenty. The cinnamon tree was the easiest to anticipate several metres away, drawn by its scented bark. The vanilla is harder to spot, a pretty creeper with thick, fleshy leaves and yellow pods. 8220;No, it8217;s an orchid, the only one that gives fruits,8221; Elston, the bespectacled young manager, corrects us. Its yellow pods carry that delicious vanilla essence that takes over a week to extract.
Black pepper turned out to be quite green, while nutmeg was a sturdy tree with branches running parallel to the ground. There was plenty of exotica around 8212; like peeri-peeri or Portuguese chillies, pink ornamental bananas, the gorgeous bird of paradise, the pitcher plant and the pretty Bixa Orelklana, a plant with hairy maroon berries that give a near-permanent orange colour when crushed.
So was rafting on the Khandepar, a meandering river that flows gently by the spice farm. But thanks to a stray mention of crocodiles, it proved to be, quite literally a breath-taking affair on a bouncy, creaky raft.
That day I almost died. But a month on, I look back with longing. Whenever the world gets too much and I need a place to hide, I close my eyes and return to the Pascoal spice village. Two minutes later, I am back at work with a smile feline and stars in my eyes. That8217;s the magic of Goa8217;s famed spice route 8212; even its memory is rejuvenating.
How to get there
The spice farm at Khandepar in Ponda district of North Goa is an hour and half8217;s drive from Panjim. You can also take a bus to Khandepar and walk down to the farm from the roadside. Else, take a taxi. If you feel really adventurous, hire a motorcycle taxi.
