In the midst of the recession,designers could actually help their hard-hit businesses by focusing on e-commerce and social network connections. The ones who did that are looking pretty smart right now,because there are even more new ideas to try in 2011.
Probably the most important accomplishment for Web-resistant designers was to recognise that their customers talk to one another online; they want girlfriend advice and they want designers to listen. As a result,many more designers this year began using Facebook and Twitter. Customers also want more access to a designers world,and they want to be able to do that through their cellphones and tablets. Chanel launched an app and everyone panicked, said James Gardner,the co-founder and chief executive of Create the Group,a leading interactive agency. Oh,we need an app.
Well,maybe. Gardner,whose firm provides digital services for clients like Marc Jacobs,Burberry,Céline and Alexander Wang,said there were several new developments that fashion houses should be considering. The most important is social commerceselling products through a social network site like Facebook.
There will be more decentralisation as consumers use mobile phones to explore a designers site,or shop. Also,Gardner said,companies should look for more ways to personalise the experience. One way is with customised products,something Nike has already done and that Burberry plans to do with a bespoke service for its iconic trench coat.
In 2011,designers will also give more instant access to customers,Gardner said. This past season,Burberry offered nearly everything on its spring 2011 runway show for immediate Web sales.
Many fashion houses still lag on the digital front,but if a designer is innovative or exciting on the runway,it seems very odd nowadays not to find the same degree of commitment on the brands site. In February,Moda Operandi,an e-commerce site created by Aslaug Magnusdottir and Lauren Santo Domingo,will begin selling runway looks from 40 to 50 designers in New York and Europe.
Moda Operandis plan may satisfy designers and shoppers. A few days after a collection is shown on the runway,members of Moda Operandi will be given a detailed look at the clothes and accessories. Then there will be a flash sale conducted over a period of 36 to 72 hours,with items offered at full retail price. Customers will put down a 50 per cent deposit and receive the merchandise four months later,with the balance due.
Among the designers who have signed up are Calvin Klein,and Nina Ricci. Magnusdottir,who previously worked at Gilt Groupe,said membership of the first season would be kept smallabout 15,000 people,who will have invitation rights. She expects about 100,000 members by the end of 2011.
Kate Ciepluch,the fashion director of Shopbop,said she liked the idea,provided that customers dont experience a burnout effect from instant shopping. After all,even fashion professionals view runway shows as a source of inspiration,and do their shopping once they know what they want. Still,Ciepluch said,for some obsessive high-end consumers,getting a great runway look may be all that matters. And for designers,this method could lead to another way to capture customer demand.CATHY HORYN