EACH summer the God of Chaos descends upon Athens. One of the world’s most historical and culturally profound cities becomes a smoking cauldron of uncontrolled excitement and activity. All of which is conveyed by the poignant image of the Parthenon overhung by smog and overrun by tourists. This summer will not be different; it might be worse. As Athens prepares to celebrate the Olympic Games between August 13 and 29, everyone has one question on their lips—how will they do it? Given the fear of terror attacks, threats by hotel workers to stage work stoppages, warnings about forest fires, and concerns that the stadia may not be completed in time for kick-off, no one expects a walk in the park. But this is not necessarily a bad thing. Like all memorable experiences, a holiday in the Greek capital brings out the best and the worst in its guests. Usually the latter emotion triumphs. But losing humour in a city of Gods is not the best idea. And energised by their astonishing victory in Euro 2004, the underdogs appear more determined than ever to prove to their one million visitors that the home of the first modern Olympics in 1896 will be at its best in 2004. While the queues outside the embassy of Greece in Delhi appear excessive, the availability of accommodation and tickets will prove the clincher for those debating summer in Ellada. Non-EU citizens can only purchase tickets in Athens 2004 ticket offices or Alpha Bank branches. Tickets for the opening ceremony, some of which are priced at 950 euros, and for sports like sailing and soccer, are going fast, but anticipate room in the stands for beach volleyball, race walking and field hockey. You will pay between 30 and 70 euros to watch heats, between 70 and 90 euros for semi-finals, but as little as 10 euros for the apparently unpopular softball. And if you’re one for surprises, skip the table tennis championship—the Chinese invented the game and have been winning it ever since. To date, less than half the 5.3 million tickets have been sold, and Fani Palli-Petralia, Greece’s deputy culture minister, has suggested that a reduction in prices may be the only option. Nevertheless, Athens 2004 promises to keep everyone in good cheer with continuous free entertainment. So though you may miss Dhanraj going for gold, you can catch the action live on giant screens at Olympic Squares in Syntagma, Zappeion and Goudi; watch cultural events, and cheer as champion cyclists and marathoners race through the historic city centre. Accommodation will prove more difficult, and Indian travellers will be adversely affected not just by the high season, but a construction frenzy that somehow overlooked the need for extra hotels. Some hotels have hiked their tariffs by as much as 1,200 per cent, but 13 cruise ships, including the Queen Mary 2, will be anchored in Piraeus to provide extra rooms. Family-run tavernas offer less expensive lodging and meals that include meze, ouzo, sour cheese pancakes, pastries stuffed with wild greens and grilled squid. But the cheapest option is to room outside Athens in the Peloponnese, a two-hour drive from the capital, and use the daily bus service into the city. Whatever your decision, be sure to plan ahead. An Olympic ticket includes free transportation on the day of the game, so head for the spanking new metro, which links all key sights, and arrive at the Acropolis at 8 am. A joint ticket allows you a week to see the ancient monuments, after which you could sink your teeth into Museum Street’s National Archaeological Museum, the often-overlooked Benaki, the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic Art, and Gazi’s avant-garde haunts. Alternatively, you can sunbathe on numerous public and private beaches, island hop to Aegina for seafood and sailing, or drop some euros at Athenian Bloomingdale’s Kolonaki or at hip Plaka. Although kitsch may make you pale, get into the Olympic spirit by bringing home stuffed versions of the official mascots, siblings Phevos and Athena. Named after the God of Light and Music (Apollo) and the Goddess of Wisdom and the city’s patron (Athena), the two unite Greece’s magnificent history with its optimistic present. Traffic-free walkways and a pre-Olympic clean up have finally allowed the streets of Athens, lined with orange trees, to catch up with other European capitals in being pedestrian friendly. If there was ever a time for a bicycle tour, it’s now. The evening’s entertainment will begin and end late. The Greeks have a penchant for potent black coffee and cigars, which keep them bright-eyed till the early hours. Start with some culture at the ancient Oden of Herodes Atticus or the modern Lycabettus Theatre, which stage music, dance, and Greek drama. Also, catch a film in one of the many outdoor theatres. It will probably be in Greek, but dinner in a “modern taverna” followed by drinks at the latest Athenian craze—lounge bars—in nightlife-central Psyrri or Exarchia, should ensure that you awaken the next morning feeling as Greek as Zorba. And in Athens this summer, that’s the next best thing to going for gold.
