Nigella Lawson reveals chicken biryani’s Indonesian connection; an expert weighs in

She recalled her first visit to Amsterdam in her twenties, where she savoured Rijsttafel, a Dutch-Indonesian spread of rice served with an array of small dishes. Inspired by this experience and Sri Owen’s take on Indonesian biryani, Lawson developed her own version of this beloved party staple.

How does biryani find connection with Indonesia? (Source: Freepik)

Curious about the biryani’s Indonesian connection, we consulted Chef Sadaf Hussain. He pointed out the deep cultural ties between the countries that reflect in travel, food and trading practices. “There’s a lot of similarity when it comes to food, especially the spices and ingredients used. When it comes to biryani, Indonesian biriyani differs quite a bit from what is identified as biriyani in the northern parts of India. Their Southern counterpart is similar to pulao, which is what Indonesian biryanis are also about,” he said.

Hussain described biryani-making as a fairly simple process: “Start by preparing your meat—mutton, chicken, or lamb—and cook it between layers of rice. Depending on your flavour preferences, you can add dum, letting it simmer slowly for a deeper taste.”

According to Hussain, Indonesian cuisine leans heavily on southern Indian influences, particularly when it comes to the use of coconut. “Dishes like appams and murtabaqs are common, as are staples like roti and samosa, all of which have parallels in India. A sizable Indian population living in Indonesia is also responsible, owing to a huge Malayali community living there,” he said.