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This is an archive article published on July 30, 2015

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Designer Anju Modi references heritage in her latest collection, inspired by Persia.

Amazon Indian Couture Week 2015, Anju Modi, fashion, AICW, Bajirao Mastani, Indian Fashion, Fashion world, Indian Express Anju Modi; ‘Kashish’ sketch; Anju Modi’s Defence Colony store.

It’s been a busy run-up to this edition of Amazon India Couture Week for Anju Modi. The award-winning designer and couturier recently launched her flagship store in Delhi’s upmarket Defence Colony. A champion of Indian textiles for nearly three decades now, she has just wrapped up work with director Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s soon-to-release period film Bajirao Mastani. This is her second film as a costume designer after last year’s hit, Goliyon Ki Raasleela Ram-Leela, which saw Modi celebrate the sartorial styles of Kutch. We spoke to the designer on her latest collection, the contemporisation of Indian couture and designing for Bollywood.

What was your inspiration for this season?
This season, my inspiration for “Kashish” came from Persia, one of the world’s richest and ancient civilizations. We see Persian influences in architecture, in myriad art forms ranging from calligraphy to miniature art, in the unique designs and bootis, and literature as well. You will see a wide gamut of colours such as ochre, ivory, mint, indigo, red and teal. I have used natural fabrics such as fine khadi, chanderi and dupion silk in the collection.

How has Indian couture changed over the years, be it in terms of silhouettes or styling?
Indian couture has now become more focused and design oriented than it was before. Not just from the perspective of the designers, but also the customers. There is maturity with how our clients and customers view our garments and that reflects in the way we style and design our collections.

You have recently launched your flagship store and made it an all-inclusive space.
I feel that Defence Colony has become a couture street. The perspective with the new store is to present the whole gamut of lines by the label under one roof, including menswear.

How was the experience of designing for Bollywood?
It is both interesting and challenging to work but it is a creative rush to work with a filmmaker like Bhansali. My collections usually follow strong cultural references as the backdrop, so designing for Bajirao Mastani was right up my alley. It was an absolute pleasure to travel through Maharashtra (the seat of power of the noted Peshwa) to research and study the crafts and design heritage. We have to be extra focused when it comes to designing for a movie, since every nuance, every detail of the character is highlighted and brought to fore through the subtlety or opulence of the look.


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