In a remote corner of North Kashmir, a stone’s throw from the Line of Control, bunkers are giving way to homestays in a village of 10,000 residents, as tourists make a beeline for a unique view – of Pakistan-occupied Kashmir just across the river. After having witnessed years of military stand-offs between India and Pakistan, marked by cross-border shelling and infiltration, Keran village in Kupwara has of late seen tents and homestays pop up on the banks of the Kishanganga, also called the Neelam river, in a trend indicative of a larger push by the Jammu and Kashmir administration to boost tourism beyond conventional areas. Previously, access to such border villages was limited to locals and the military. However, following the reiteration of the ceasefire agreement between India and Pakistan in February 2021, the J&K administration decided to allow tourists into these areas. Located around 150 kilometres from Srinagar, visitors to Keran need to take permission from the Kupwara Deputy Commissioner’s office to cross the fence on the Line of Control. On a weekday, a group of tourists at the village could be seen drawing their children away from the banks of the rapidly flowing river. Akanksha Singh, who was visiting from Mumbai, said her family had travelled to Kashmir “without an itinerary”, and when their houseboat owner suggested Keran for a day trip, “we were immediately excited”. “The appeal was to see life on the LoC up close. Not something we would get to experience anywhere else,” she said. After completing the formalities, she travelled with her husband and two children. “We carried a basket with some food. Facilities are still limited here,” she said. The tourist rush, locals said, soars over the weekends. Since the weather also plays an important factor in accessibility to the area, most who visit do so in the summer. A group of young men have taken the initiative to provide accommodation to tourists in a row of tents along the Kishanganga. “Before we had the opportunity to start this small venture, we were focused on trying to leave Keran. For those of us who could not, there was really nothing to do. Some people sought work with the Army as porters and others worked in the fields, and we always lived in fear of shelling,” Nasir Ahmad Khan, 23, said. After having witnessed years of military stand-offs between India and Pakistan, Keran village in Kupwara has of late seen tents and homestays pop up on the banks of the Kishanganga. pic.twitter.com/nuWhnYKhVA — The Indian Express (@IndianExpress) August 22, 2023 The road inside Keran is a dirt track, where only vehicles of the military or those owned by locals are allowed. However, residents feel that with the Department of Tourism bringing focus to their village, infrastructure development could soon follow. “I feel like this will open more job opportunities for us. For years, we have been seeing roads and hotels come up on the other side and we are hopeful that these things will come up here as well,” Abrar Wani, a local resident, said. Keran is among three border villages being opened for tourism in Kupwara district. The second, Teetwal village, is part of the traditional route of pilgrimage to Sharda Peeth, a temple that was one of the foremost ancient centres of learning in the Indian subcontinent. Machil, one of the last villages in the Valley, has also been opened to tourists. This initiative aligns with the Tourism Department’s efforts to promote lesser-explored regions and foster tourism in border areas, while highlighting the unique experiences offered by these locations. Secretary to the J&K administration’s Tourism Department, Syed Abid Rasheed Shah, told The Indian Express, “We are opening up tourism in border areas and highlighting sustainable tourism initiatives. The efforts undertaken by the local communities and the government in preserving the environment and cultural heritage, and to allow tourists a window into life at the border, are of key interest here.” He added that these parts of the Valley were untouched by tourists for several reasons, including security, and that the department “would like to encourage tourists to venture beyond conventional destinations and explore Jammu and Kashmir's border regions”.
