Diwali at home, in Lucknow where I grew up in the ’80s, would begin with the aroma of ghee wafting through the house, drawing us kids to the kitchen. What would bring a gleam in my eyes would be the sight of Biji (my grandmother) working her magic with atta (wheat flour), gud (jaggery) and ghee; no measuring cups, no recipe book, nothing; head down and hands synchronously aiding each other — one mixing and the other adding ingredients. We used to hover around, hoping for a nibble or to pick up some crumbs, but, of course, our elders were cleverer. We would be given errands in return for Biji’s treats. Ours was a large household, a typical farming landlord’s ghar. The home had to be prepped for the festival and visiting relatives. The treats were naturally too good to miss, so the children would set off with an errand each. This is a memory I cherish even today. My tasks would usually be cleaning the windows and the aangan and help making baatis (cotton wicks) for the diyas. Fresh cotton from the fields would arrive in sacks. Amidst sorting the cotton seeds and playfully blowing it around (which ended up with more cleaning work for us), we would have a healthy banter on who would make the most baatis. What made it more appealing was that we would be given 10 paise inaam (reward) for each baati made. I’ve always believed that our festivals and the associated rituals and their food have a scientific significance. For instance, the two Navratris (Vasant and Sharad) occur around major season changes, when our immunity and digestive capacities would be quite vulnerable. No wonder then that we are advised vrat ka khana (food for fasting) during this time. Millets and grains that make way into the vrat dishes help fortify our immunity and are easy to digest, while helping us feel full for longer. Likewise, Diwali comes at a time when most regions in India transition into winter. Studies now prove that lighting oil lamps or even ghee lamps humidify the dry winter atmosphere and clears up the air, too. I recall asking my grandfather why we needed so many diyas around the house. He would explain how both oil and ghee contain powerful anti-bacterial and cleansing properties when burnt, so you can imagine, what lighting up hundreds of diyas can do for the environment. Add to that, all the house cleaning clears the clutter and dust, something our lungs would be grateful for in the upcoming colder months. Re-painting the house, a mandatory custom in almost all of India, is again significant. Considering that monsoon would mostly be phasing out towards the final quarter of the year, just before Diwali, plastering and re-painting the house helps dry out any moisture stuck in the walls and de-moulding them. Incredible, isn’t it? Everything ties in together and makes sense, so beautifully. Back to the topic of diyas, another memory that comes to mind is the gud-atte ke diye Biji used to make. It takes just three-four ingredients and is fairly easy to make. I remember assisting in the kitchen with my share of what I believed looked like diyas. Ghee would be poured in these diyas, lighted and placed at the altar of worship, as a remembrance and gratitude to both, God and ancestors. Well, truth be told, that was more for the elders. We kids would just be watching and waiting for the wicks in those diyas to burn out so we could grab our share. Trust me when I say, the burnt-out ghee in those diyas added a truly spectacular layer to the already heady aroma of warm flour and jaggery. This would be followed by urns and urns of other mithai and pakwaan. And this was not just for our family but for anyone and everyone who would drop in to wish us and seek the blessings of elders. The health-conscious generation today sadly tends to become a little wary of indulging in the food festivities, while back in our younger days, we would hardly worry about these cravings. But practically viewed, this is actually a ‘treat time’ for us after nearly a month-long observance of austerity. And wait for it, there is science involved here too! During the colder months, our body needs more energy to keep us warm. Sweeteners like jaggery, and fat mediums, such as oils and ghee, become your natural sources of energy. Ever wondered why we tend to crave more sweets and fried foods during winter? Or just inclined to eat more in general. This is why. I always say that our body is actually quite intelligent and knows what it needs and when. Our task then, is to listen to our body and honour its culinary needs. Our ancestors knew this well and seasonal cooking continues till date in most of our home kitchens, especially during festivals. I often get asked how to eat healthy during festivals. My answer — eat what is cooked at home. Our traditional recipes are already well balanced. As long as you eat in moderation and avoid too much refined foods, nothing should deter you from enjoying Diwali as you should. RECIPE FOR GINGER KHARA SEV Preparation time: 10mins Cooking Time: 25mins Serves: 2-4 Ingredients: *1 cup Besan/Gram flour *¼ tsp Black Pepper powder *¼ tsp Turmeric Powder *1 tsp Red chili powder *½ tsp Garam Masala Powder *A pinch of Hing *Salt, to taste *1 tbsp Ginger juice *1 tbsp Oil for Kneading + For deep frying Process *In a mixing bowl combine the besan, pepper powder, turmeric powder, red chili powder, garam masala powder, hing and salt. Mix well. *Heat 1 tbsp of oil and add it to the besan mixture. Mix till you get a crumbly texture. *Add ginger juice and water to make a soft dough (it will be sticky, so grease your hands). *Heat oil in a kadai for deep frying. Grease the sev mould. *Stuff a portion of dough in the mould and hold it above the kadai. Carefully start pressing the sev through to the oil. Press in a circular motion till you get the shape and size you desire. When done cut with scissors. Fry till golden brown and crisp in texture. *Remove with a perforated spoon and drain excess oil. Repeat with remaining dough. *When it cools down crack the sev in small pieces and serve or store in airtight container. Ranveer Brar is a chef, restaurateur, author and popular television host
