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The White Lotus season 3 has a real-life link to a ‘CIA spy’ who mysteriously disappeared in the 1960s, says costume designer
The White Lotus 3 costume designer Alex Bovaird reveals a surprising real-life link between the show's Thai-inspired wardrobe and a missing CIA spy.

The White Lotus Season 3 is currently streaming on Jio Hotstar in India, and while the hotels are back in business, it’s the fashion that’s stealing the spotlight. From Bottega to Cartier, Valentino to Louis Vuitton, every character’s wardrobe speaks volumes. But beyond the high-end labels, the show’s fashion draws heavy inspiration from its Thai setting and and that influence is stitched right into the costumes. But there is more to the story. The show’s costume designer, Alex Bovaird, recently revealed that some of the Thai-inspired outfits have an unexpected real-life link to a man who went missing decades ago; a man who was said to be a CIA spy.
Bovaird recently shared with the New York Post that she sourced Thai outfits from Jim Thompson, a renowned Thai fashion brand founded by an American man who mysteriously disappeared in Malaysia in 1967. His disappearance remains unsolved to this day. “There is a brand [in Thailand] called Jim Thompson that we loved,” Bovaird said. “It was started by an American whose legend is that he may have been a spy for the CIA, and that he fell in love with Thai textiles and opened a factory. They have incredible home furnishings and gorgeous men’s and women’s resort wear. It is a bit more classic and has more international styling, so we were able to blend it into the American guests’ wardrobe.”
Who was Jim Thompson?
Long before the world knew him as high-end silk merchant, Jim Thompson was a US military intelligence officer. After World War II, he reportedly settled in Bangkok after his service at the Office of Strategic Services (the predecessor to the CIA) got over. There, he fell in love with Thai textiles. He saw potential in the local silk industry and turned it into a global luxury brand. His brand took off when he supplied his materials for the Broadway run of Rodgers and Hammerstein’s The King and I.
But his life took a mysterious turn when, on Easter Sunday in 1967, he went for a walk in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands and was never seen again. Some say he never stopped working for the CIA even when he began his textile business and that he was working as a “double agent”. The Post said that conspiracy theories about his disappearance range from espionage gone wrong to an accidental fall, or even assassination. Few theories even suggest that he had simply made enemies in high places.
According to CIA reading rooms docs, born in 1906 in Greenville, Delaware, into a privileged family, his father Henry Thompson, was a textile company owner and state Republican chairman. Jim Thompson enlisted in the Delaware National Guard in 1940. He went on to volunteer for service in the China-Burma-India theater. According to the reports he arrived in Bangkok four days after Japan’s surrender, in August 1945 and discovered traditional silk weaving in Chiang Mai but found it was a dying art. He then decided to stay in Thailand and revive its silk industry. Theories suggest he got involved with political figures like Pridi Phanomyong, who was later forced into exile.
Also read: What brings Sam Rockwell to The White Lotus Season 3? Just a cameo or a recurring character?
Created and directed by Mike White, the American satirical comedy anthology features an impressive lineup of well-known names, including Leslie Bibb, Carrie Coon, Walton Goggins, Sarah Catherine Hook, Jason Isaacs, Lalisa Manobal (Blackpink’s Lisa), Michelle Monaghan, Sam Nivola, Lek Patravadi, Parker Posey, and Patrick Schwarzenegger, etc. One can find Jim Thompson’s outfits seamlessly blended into the luxe wardrobes of the show’s elite guests. Parker Posey as Victoria Ratliff was seen wearing a silk kimono-style kaftan. Meanwhile, Christian Friedel’s character, the hotel manager Fabian, wore a Mandarin-style shirt. In one episode, Natasha Rothwell’s Belinda draped herself in silk scarf kaftan.
Bovaird even worked with Jacquemus directly after the designer reached out via Instagram, hoping to be part of the show’s high end fashion. “We had a safe full of ridiculously expensive pieces,” Bovaird admitted on Dazed. One of the most important aspects of her design in the show is probably the handbags chosen for each character. Take a detailed look and you can easily spot how it justifies their personalities and backgrounds. For Victoria’s character, Bovaird selected a Gucci crossbody bag. The bag had to be easy to open and close, since Victoria needed to take lorazepam throughout the show. Two standout JW Anderson bags perfectly complemented Chelsea’s character and her market-inspired vibe. They were carefully chosen to highlight Chelsea’s 90s Ibiza style. Jaclyn’s Erewhon tote bag was suggested by Michelle Monaghan for its laid-back style.
Bovaird also teased that there are hidden “Easter eggs” in the wardrobe this season, just like in Season 2, where Tanya’s death dress was subtly foreshadowed. While she’s keeping tight-lipped about what these clues might be, Bovaird confirmed that fans have already spotted some potential red herrings online.


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