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Manning the kitchen

In Anthony Bourdain’s Kitchen Confidential,a restaurant kitchen is depicted as full of aggressive,expletive-spewing men,who think nothing of suffering burns and calluses and doing long hours in difficult working conditions.

In a male-dominated set-up,we meet female chefs who stand out,despite many false starts and several roadblocks

In Anthony Bourdain’s Kitchen Confidential,a restaurant kitchen is depicted as full of aggressive,expletive-spewing men,who think nothing of suffering burns and calluses and doing long hours in difficult working conditions. It also represents that women can succeed only if they can hold their own. In other words,the only women who can succeed in this world are those who are ‘more men than men’.

It is therefore a pleasant surprise to meet Shruti Sinha,Munira Burhani and Tejaswini Desai – all lady chefs working in a totally male-dominated industry and yet,holding their own. While Shruti Sinha has been working as a pastry chef since 1986,starting out with Baker’s Basket,which was then part of Taj Blue Diamond,Tejaswini Desai is a recent convert to the cause. Munira Burhani,on the other hand,has been active in the field for the last 20 months now.

It is the initial few years that are the hardest for many,since they beginwith mundane responsibilities and have to prove themselves. “When I started out in 1986,I did find it tough going for a while. However,if you have the drive and the will to make it,everything falls into place,” informs Sinha.

More than the desire to prove oneself,the one major concern is the unpredictable working hours. It is common for chefs to work 12 hours or more a day,especially during weekends and holidays. And the hours tend to affect one’s personal life. “I realise that the late working hours are a major concern. However,because I’ve wanted to be a chef ever since I was in Std VIII,this is just a minor obstacle in my path,” says Desai,who has just graduatedfrom the Maharashtra State Institute of Hotel Management and Catering Technology (MSIHMCT). “Just because you are a woman,does not mean you won’t have to go through the rigours of the job. If you are asked to carry a 10 kg sack,it’s only professional to do so and you can’t back out. I am totally aware of the physical demands involved in the job,” adds Desai,who’s now studying for an MBA,after which she plans to start her own restaurant.

For Munira Burhani,cooking and being a chef was a dream she nurtured since childhood. “I’ve always wanted to be a chef and now that I am living my dream life,I can handle any difficulty which crops up,” informs this chef with Inn Venue Hospitality,which owns Deccan Rendezvous,Polka Dots and Baker’s Basket.

“Since every product in a bakery can be modeled into a new one,it gives me a lot of satisfaction to be in this profession. With the kind of bakery technology that is now available,it’s really important to be one step ahead of others and be proficient at your job,” says Sinha.

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“I am aware that working hours and the near-total dominance of men in this profession is something which concerns many lady chefs. However,since I only ever wanted to be a chef,all these are minor concerns for me,” asserts Burhani.

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