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This is an archive article published on February 20, 2011

Sin City

Her eyes widen as Radhika Iyer experiences the flavours of chilli and cinnamon blended perfectly with that of thick hot chocolate.

With new chocolate lounges and boutiques opening up,Mumbai indulges like never before

Her eyes widen as Radhika Iyer experiences the flavours of chilli and cinnamon blended perfectly with that of thick hot chocolate. It’s an unusual pairing — the spices cut into the sinfulness of the chocolate — that the 28-year-old had earlier avoided lest it spoil her weekly dessert indulgence. But now,having experimented at her friend’s expense,Iyer isn’t regretting the decision and orders herself one from the extensive menu at the Chocolateria San Churro.

A franchise of an Australian chain,the lounge is the latest addition to the increasing number of eateries dedicated to chocolate in Mumbai. According to Zeba Mitha Kohli,the proprietor or Fantasie chocolates and the city’s most well-known chocolatier,this is merely the tip of the iceberg. “Earlier,chocolate was considered an occasional indulgence but now,it’s synonymous with desserts,” points out the entrepreneur,who owns half a dozen outlets across Mumbai,selling over 70 varieties of chocolates.

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The last two years have witnessed an evident boom in the chocolate business. Apart from the famous Patchi and Belgian brand Leonidas which set up shop in the upmarket Kemps Corner neighbourhood,other local chocolate boutiques like Bruijn and Shocolaat,offering premium quality varieties,have opened up too. A Chocolate Affair,another Australian chain,has its first franchise at Bandra’s Pali Naka. “There is an evident gap in the market. How many places can you think of visiting if you crave a good,authentic hot chocolate or a chocolate shot?” points out Anup Chaubal,partner at San Churro.

The trend,however,is strictly in contrast with the rising calorie-consciousness in the city. But Mandavi Kanchan of Bruijn feels that it’s over-indulgences that are a problem. “Chocolate is good for health too. The higher your cocoa content,the more antioxidants it contains,which purifies blood.” Adds Chaubal,“Those who aren’t experiencing premium chocolates and desserts on their international travels are picking up imported,quality products from high-end grocery stores and supermarkets. The exposure to good chocolate is high and the fitness-conscious patrons are now looking beyond Cadbury when they do occasionally indulge their sweet tooth.”

As Chaubal points out,the quality of the chocolate used in preparing the products plays an important role in the rising popularity of the concept. However,variety. Devesh Sandhu defies the cliché that only women binge on chocolate. But the 30-year-old says that quality and innovation are important in a dessert. Churros —delectable Spanish doughnut strips fried on the spot and dipped in molten chocolate — available at San Churro are Sandhu’s favourite. He also enjoys the vanilla popsicle platter at A Chocolate Affair that comes with melted dark chocolate,butterscotch crunchies and crushed cream wafer. At Bruijn,says Kanchan,the regulars visit for the unique black pepper-flavoured chocolates. “Chocolate is like wine — it comes in varieties and has nuances depending on the source of the cocoa.”

Though the city is acquiring an unparalleled affinity to chocolates,often replacing Indian sweets at festivals for their longer shelf life,the concept,as a standalone,is tough to survive. A few years ago La Chocolat,the city’s first chocolate lounge shut down within six months of opening because “it was ahead of its time”. In order to fit in,both Chaubal and Farhana Sacha of A Chocolate Affair admit to introducing savouries like sandwiches and open waffles on the menu. “The international franchises don’t offer savouries but we want to appeal to a wider audience; those who may not enjoy chocolate,” says Sacha. Kanchan’s boutique too specialises in roasted nuts and dates to complement her sweet treats.

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