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Journalism of Courage
In an unassuming building in Worli’s Municipal Industrial Estate, a new restaurant has opened its doors. While the signage reads ‘Shenoy’s’ in crisp new letters, the name carries weight for longtime residents and old-time taxi drivers.
This very spot once housed Shenoy’s Canteen, started in 1967 by the late Venkatesh Shenoy—a Gaud Saraswat Brahmin (GSB) from Moodabidri, Karnataka. He arrived in Bombay as a 13-year-old in 1925 with nothing but an ‘anna’ in his pocket, later becoming part of India’s freedom struggle, the Samyukta Maharashtra movement, and serving as both councillor and MLA. The chowk leading to the canteen is named after him. His canteen, originally catering to the area’s textile mill workers, served upma, sheera, puri-bhaji, and other quick, hearty Maharashtrian meals before expanding to include the city’s beloved ‘Punjabi food.’
Now, decades later, his grandson, chef Vikram Shenoy, has revived the family legacy at the same spot—a 40-seater restaurant called Shenoy’s with a special focus on GSB cuisine.
“Shenoy’s Canteen had a wonderful run from 1967 until 2008. It’s always been a family-run establishment—my grandfather was a very giving man who always kept his door and galla (cash register) open for anyone in need. While he ran the kitchen, my grandmother manned the cash counter. When my father grew up, he joined the canteen, and when he married, my mother—who has a fine taste for cooking—took over the kitchen,” shared chef Vikram.
By 2008, his father Keshav Shenoy was transitioning to pursue yoga professionally, his grandmother needed rest after years of service, and Vikram was determined to pursue a degree in hotel management from IHM Mumbai, known as Dadar Catering College, and so the canteen closed for a while.
After gaining experience at prestigious places like The Taj Mahal Palace in Colaba and Jumeirah, Dubai, Vikram decided to launch a delivery kitchen called ‘Masala Kitchen’ at the same spot in 2014. While the kitchen continued running, he found that the personal touch the family was known for was missing. A series of coincidences — like a friend visiting the delivery kitchen and hearing about Shenoy’s Canteen from a taxi driver, and the response to his Instagram posts of homemade GSB food—led Vikram to reconnect with his roots and conceptualise Shenoy’s.
Expect a tangy, incredibly soft chicken served on a Malabari paratha disk, paired with Gojju—a staple in GSB cuisine that can be made with both fruits and vegetables in many variations. The Gojju elevates the dish, while the juice from the chicken and gojju melds together, making everything melt in your mouth. Kela Bhaji features lightly battered, deep-fried raw banana slices generously coated with peri peri spice, giving them a fiery kick, and is served with a dressing of hung yogurt, minced garlic, and herbs. We found ourselves returning to it throughout the meal.
Also on offer are Zunka Bhakar in the form of a seekh kebab, Pan Polo as a crispy crepe base, Kokum as a refreshing soda, and authentic preparations like Hooman (navy beans), Dalitoy (a simple dal dish with a light seasoning of curry leaves and rye), Ghassi, and his mother Sheela Shenoy’s special Pomfret Fry. Other crowd-pleasers include Dahi Kebab, Palak Patta Chaat, Tandoori Paneer Tikka, Pulled Rogan Josh Tacos, Truffle Mushroom Cheddar Naan Bomb, Butter Chicken, and Goan Fish Curry but in an innovative form.
“I noticed a gap in the market,” said chef Vikram. “There are a few places that offer GSB cuisine, but they’re mostly frequented by people from the community or those already familiar with the cuisine. I didn’t want any entry barriers. I wanted to gently guide my customers and introduce them to GSB food. For example, some might not be keen on trying banana bhaji, so I add peri peri and complement it with yogurt dressing. Others may not know Gojju, so I incorporate it into various dishes, and once they try it, they’re hooked,” he said.
What really stands out is that all preparations are made fresh daily, allowing the ingredients to truly shine. Take the Ghee Roast Chicken, for example—it’s a must-try for ghee lovers, made in-house. Another standout is their Devasthana Saar, the only soup on the menu. It’s inspired by a dish traditionally served in their temple, reimagined as a soup served in a French Press. The result is a thick, non-creamy, flavourful broth with identifiable notes of tomato, hing, roasted coconut, and a subtle aftertaste of jaggery.
The food is also light, on both the stomach and the wallet, with appetizers starting at Rs 250 and the Konkani Fish Fry Thali available for Rs 750.
Located just a stone’s throw away from Palladium and within walking distance of several popular, higher-priced establishments, what made Vikram keep the prices so competitive? “I didn’t want any entry barriers,” he explained. “I consciously set the prices—not so low that it lacks value, but not so high that people would hesitate to try something new.”
Our only complaint? The dessert menu offered just four items, none of which gave us a taste of GSB cuisine. The chef assures us that this will be addressed within a month, and the dessert section will soon be updated.
Our verdict? We’ll definitely be returning to Shenoy’s with friends and family for a hearty meal, eager to experience new flavors and combinations that will become favorites we’ll hold on to.
Where: Shenoy’s, Suite no 12, Municipal Industrial Estate, HAINES Road, Freedom Fighter Vyankatesh Shenoy Chowk, Gandhinagar, Worli, Mumbai
When: 12 pm – 3 pm and 7 pm – 12 am, Tuesday to Sunday
Price for two: Rs 1,200
For Reservation, call 8291791716
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