Makarand Narvekar urges Maharashtra CM to grant heritage status to South Mumbai’s iconic Irani cafes. (File/Representational)Amid growing opposition over the use of wood and charcoal at commercial eateries and the Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation (BMC) mandating that Mumbai’s bakeries switch to cleaner fuel by July 8, former BJP corporator Makarand Narvekar has written to Maharashtra Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis, urging him to grant heritage status to South Mumbai’s Irani cafes and bakeries, and thereby provide an exemption to them.
“One of the sectors that stands to be most affected by this decision is the iconic Irani cafes in South Mumbai, which have long been a cornerstone of our city’s food culture and history,” he wrote in his letter dated February 17, adding that these cafes have been in existence for over a century and that the use of wood-fired ovens is an integral part of their legacy.
“The distinct taste and aroma of their baked goods result directly from these wood and charcoal-based ovens. Switching to non-wood or coal ovens will alter the flavour of the cuisine that patrons have cherished for generations,” he added.
Describing Irani cafes as “not just eateries but an essential part of Mumbai’s culinary history,” Narvekar wrote, “Their origins trace back to the 19th century when Zoroastrian Irani immigrants introduced their culinary traditions to Mumbai. Over time, these cafes became symbols of the city’s cosmopolitan identity, offering a space where people from all walks of life could come together and enjoy a warm cup of chai, freshly baked bread, and a variety of delicacies.” He also said that more than just places to eat, these cafes embody Mumbai’s shared history and spirit, adding to its unique charm and character.
In his letter, he requested the state government to consider granting heritage status to these Irani cafes, with an exemption from the prohibition on wood and charcoal use.
“In New York, historic restaurants are exempt from regulations to preserve traditional cooking methods, while in the Netherlands, centuries-old windmills, in the middle of the cities, are preserved as national heritage,” he argued, adding that similarly, we should preserve the traditions that make Mumbai unique.