Fruit Invasion

Dessert and drinks have always found a perfect ally in fruits while main courses have remained aloof to them.

Dessert and drinks have always found a perfect ally in fruits while main courses have remained aloof to them. However,this attitude is changing. More restaurants are offering the options of fruit-based food,especially with the advent of casual cafés serving global fare. This is a good sign. Juicy fruits are naturally cooling when consumed in liquid form and nothing symbolises summer more than fruit-based dessert. However,it defeats the purpose of trying to cool oneself with a fruit-based drink when one indulges in accompanying food that is either too spicy or too rich.

This is why Moshe Shek,owner of the Moshes chain of cafés,created an Orange Ravioli. For pastas,sauces are usually cheesy and heavy,with the only alternative being a tomato-based sauce, he reasons. This is a good,light and flavourful option during summer as we serve ravioli with a concentrated orange juice sauce. Jaydeep Mukherjee of Indigo Café in Andheri similarly experiments with different fruits during the summer. As part of their fortnightly specials menu,Mukherjee introduced ravioli with caramalised pineapple and pumpkin. Pineapple is a relatively commonly used fruit that features in pizzas when combined with ham. San Qi at the Four Seasons serves pineapple fried rice which is very popular in Thailand because the taste is subtle,the fruit adds a crunch,the dish looks colourful and is very aromatic, explains Chef Naphaphak Prompaksa,Junior Sous Chef. Interestingly,San Qi also serves sushi that incorporates fruit. Last year,their menu featured mango sushi and this summer,it features plum and cucumber.

Intuitively,though,one cant expect too many fruit-based mains on the menu. Such dishes tend to be light that arent substantial; fruits are better suited to appetisers. One of the simplest examples is Parma ham wrapped around melon (cantaloupe or honey dew). Parma ham or proscuitto can be used in simple and elegant antipasti; it can be wrapped around breadsticks and drizzled with balsamic or wrapped around dried fruits. But,my favourite is when you combine it with chilled melon in the summer, gushes Hemant Lakhani,a Bandra resident who lived in Florence for a year. Lakhani points out that,due to the simplicity of the dish,it isnt restricted to high-end restaurants and cites the example of Yellow Tree Café in Pali Hill.

Another example is the Prawn and Kiwi Ceviche at Tote on the Turf,which introduces fruit to the Latin American citrus-marinated seafood dish. Chef Keyur Chandorkar explains that the kiwi goes perfectly with the prawns as it adds a bit of sweetness but still has a sour tinge that complements the lemon dressing.

Ultimately,though,fruits are most commonly found in salads,the perfect appetisers during summer. When the temperatures are soaring,I like my drinks chilled and if I can get my food that way as well,nothing like it. Thats why I like salads; they are cooling,refreshing and leave you feeling light and healthy, explains Simran Singh,a 23-year-old management consultant. Our citrus salad (featuring grapefruit,pomelo,orange and sweet lime) is very popular,especially during the summer, points out Mukherjee. There are,of course,the popular Thai salads. Made from raw mango or raw papaya,they incorporate lime,chilli and sugar and,ultimately,are juicy. Chef Kato,Japanese Sous Chef at San Qi says that these salads should be consumed during summer as the fresh fruits and vegetables used in salads have natural water content which helps keep your body cool and,at the same time,keeps your meal light.

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