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This is an archive article published on August 9, 2014

Finding Nemo

A new restaurant is serving up a heady mix of new cocktails and food from Korea and Russia.

Cool sea breeze coupled with a quaint setup inside a massive bungalow are the drawing points of Cafe Nemo, the new restaurant in Worli. Slightly difficult to spot, it is tucked away in a bylane off Seaface Road, and is housed in the same bungalow Cool Chef Cafe was.

The centerpiece of the decor is a wall that looks different on every visit. With equally spaced rows of hooks, the owners plan to make simple installations that can be easily changed. The day we visited, assorted gerbera flowers adorned it. On other days, it could have origami art, little colourful umbrellas or even balloons hanging from it. Cafe Nemo has been divided into two dining rooms — a spunky looking all-day bar and a banquet area for private parties.

Though the bar features classics such as Long Island Iced Tea, Martini, and Manhattan, it also has some unique cocktails. Our favourite was Zucchini by the Sea — fresh zucchini juice with vodka and sea salt, a not-too-sweet creation that tantalised the taste buds.

Unlike many restaurants that fail to understand the concept of a “light” salad and add enough dressing to put a calorific steak burger to shame, Cafe Nemo greeted us with lots of greens covered in light dressing. The Pickled Lotus Root and Peanut Salad stood out for its mild flavours and oriental spices. The salads were followed by Baos — freshly steamed soft buns with varied stuffings. We suggest meat eaters skip the potato/dry chilli and chicken/basil varieties in favour of the Beef Bulgogi with Kimchi Bao, for its robust tanginess.

The rest of the menu is divided into small plates and large plates. The Russian pelmeni, a dumpling stuffed with herbed potato mash, could do with a crunchier filling such as crabmeat or prawns. Avoid it unless you prefer a starchy taste. The Tenderloin Tartare was bang on — we loved the combination of soft meat against the crispy chips and the bite-sized portions make for great bar snacks.

The standout dish in the large plates menu is the choice of Seoul Bowls. This comes with sticky rice, peanuts, a mix of secret sauces from the streets of Seoul and your choice of crispy tofu, beef bulgogi or pork belly. The portions are good enough for two people and priced in the range of Rs 500 – Rs 650.

All in all, the Cafe Nemo experience was a satisfying one. With an experimental attempt at toying with Mumbai’s food scene, we feel that the boys behind Bonobo and Jam Jar Diner may just have another winner at hand with Cafe Nemo.

meenakshi.iyer@expressindia.com

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