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The virtual exploration of Bhendi Bazaar offered a thumb-sized locality enclosed by IM Merchant Road,Banian Street and Mutton Street. But the real view of this quaint area and a truly fascinating one came through the film of rainwater gushing down from the JJ Flyover and running all over the windows of No 45 bus.
Those travelling from South Mumbai get a whiff of Bhendi Bazaar approaching,thanks to the row of ittar shops at its beginning. For those looking for more indications,there is a row of mehendiwallahs on the pavement and kebab stalls. A more pronounced sign are the vintage buildings with ornate windows and balconies,which havent got a coat of paint in decades.
This view,however,may not be a lasting one if the makeover plan spearheaded by Syedna Mohamed Burhanuddin,the spiritual leader of Dawoodi Bohras,stays on track. The Rs 1,500-crore project with the ambitious plan of redeveloping 270 buildings and 2,000 commercial establishments spread over 18 acres is set to change its landscape and re-house over 25,000 people in the new buildings.
Most of the buildings in the area are 80-100 years old and are in a dilapidated condition. The area is very congested and in a mess, says Sheikh Abdeali Bhanpurawala,chief coordinator of the Saifee Burhani Upliftment Project. Since one of the most prominent Rozzas of the Bohras,Rozza-tahera,and a strong presence of the community are in Bhendi Bazar,he doesnt deny an emotional reason behind the move. The condition in which Bohris live here is a shame. The standard of living is much better in Mazagaon,Bandra or Marol, he adds. However,Bhanpurawala says that this is more of a philanthropic project that would also benefit people of other communities living in the 18-acre project area.
True to its name,Bhendi Bazaar is packed with numerous shops. There are plenty of shops selling stones,leather,foam,embroidered garments,eateries,bakeries and second-hand electric appliances. But,its food that draws people in hordes throughout the year though the biggest crowd-puller remains the annual Urs of Syedna-Tahed Saiffuddin Sahab. In fact,on Friday and Saturday the place was abuzz with Bohra trooping in for the Urs.
You can sample the best of Muslim delicacies here, says Zoya Khan,who lives in nearby Nagpada but often visits here with her family. There is Surti 12 Handi,which is famous for paya and nalli nihari; and Firoz Farsan for Patrel Biriyani and barfis. In and around the area,Shalimar,Noor Mohammadi and Noorani serve finger-licking meat dishes albeit with dollops of customary grease. Yummy falooda is Shalimars another claim to fame. Then right across the street is Jabbar Restaurant that serves the spiciest masala tea on earth.
Under the proposed redevelopment plan,the market will be more organised. Now,all the shops are scattered in the area. The concerned business units will be placed close to each other and there will be a food court, says Bhanpurawala. But the greatest boost could be the green cover and all modern facilities proposed for the plan. Till date,the area,despite its proximity to the swanky South Mumbai,remains untouched by development, says an excited Naseer Hussain Bulsari.
Though the old-world charms of Bhendi Bazaar might be compromised with this project,most Bohras feel its for a better tomorrow. Sheikh Poras Fakhruddin,who is here to for the annual Urs along with his entire family from Kuwait,is tempted to live here post-redevelopment. However,I doubt there would be any place left for outsiders, he says.
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