Fresh From the Valley

“People in Kolkata are well aware of Kashmiri food,thanks to its presence in the five star hotels. So most are not too unfamiliar with the rogan josh,kashmiri aloo dum,or the firun. But here the tastes that have been explored go beyond the more familiar dishes,” says Subrata Debnath,consultant chef.

So there is a Gustaba( meatballs cooked in yogurt gravy), kokur nadur,spicy chicken cooked with lotus stem; akhrot and anjeer ki kebabs,made with figs and walnuts and sigri gada,tandoor cooked betki,marinates with Kashmiri red chilli and ginger powder.

Kashmiri food,claims Debnath, is best suited for winters when the weather is a little cool. “Kashmiris use a lot of dry fruits in their food hence winter is the best time to have them. There are many dishes like the Kashmiri Rajmah that may sound simple but are actually made with a different kind of rajmah,found only in Kashmir. It is red in colour and smaller than the North-Indian variety,” says Debnath. It is not just the rajmah that was sourced from special Kashmiri shops in Delhi,ingredients like rattan josh (for the rogan josh) were brought from the bustling bazaars of the Capital too .

However,while the Kolkata palate may be more familiar with a strong hot taste,the Kashmiri taste is quite different,often skipping the use of Bengali favourites like tomatoes and onions.  Nonetheless,what makes the Kashmiri cuisine different is the fact that it is a culmination of its rich history —a blend of cuisines that speak of Kashmir’s past linkage with the Pandits,Hindus,Mughals and even the Iranian Persians. Even the Khawa tea that is served towards the end of the meal gives a hint of the various cultures that have shaped the land. Made with green tea and boiled with saffron and cardamom,the strong taste may be a far cry from the sugary milky concoction preferred by Bengalis,but it’s a taste that lingers long after you are done with your cuppa.

Much like the Kashmiri shalwallahs who seem to be disappearing from the city leaving behind just an aftertaste of the bygone winters.

The festival is on at Charcoal for another two weeks. A meal for two will cost around Rs 700