Tomorrow once again

It all began this week three years ago,when Bernard Arnault,president of LVMH announced on a fashion portal that Phoebe Philo will be the new creative director of Celine,a second league French label.

It all began this week three years ago,when Bernard Arnault,president of LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy),announced on a fashion portal that Phoebe Philo will be the new creative director of Celine,a second league French label. Philo,a Londoner who had worked with Stella McCartney at Chloe before taking on the mantle herself,was barely overwhelmed. But with her first collection alone,she single-handedly reoriented fashion to a new aesthetic and turned minimal into luxury. Of course,the rest of the world latched on to her evolutionary and revolutionary tenor. What was more remarkable was how a designer could change the stakes of a (relatively) small label and turn it into one of the most au courant names.

Philos appointment raised the bar for big-name fashion houses who wanted the same turnaround effect. The luxury game was now bigger than ever. Europe and the US were satiated; Japan,China and the rest of Asia were opening up with numbers and profits like never before. A new game and a fresh name was the need of the hour.

This March,came John Gallianos departure from Christian Dior. It set off a game of musical chairs among fashion houses. Where history and experience once mattered (even Yves Saint Laurent had to work his fingers off to attain the top spot at Dior,in vain),top jobs now went to the young and the trendy,names who would lead heritage labels with a firm eye on the future.

Balmain,the favourite brand of hardcore fashionistas,dismissed the loved-up Christopher Decarnin. This,despite rave reviews and Decarnin transforming Balmain into one of the edgiest labels around. Power shoulders,rock T-shirts,sequins they all come from

Decarnins Balmain. French-born designer Olivier Rousteing now heads the label and his exotic-skinned luxurious looks for their new mens collection are appealing.

Clare Waight Keller,the former creative director of Pringle of Scotland,whose CV includes stints at Calvin Klein,Ralph Lauren and Tom Ford-era Gucci,now heads Chloe. Pringle brought in another Britisher to assume her erstwhile role Alistair Carr,who had worked for Marni,Cacharel and Balenciaga before. Carrs first showing for resort 2012 takes the knitwear brand in a futuristic direction.

Kenzo has appointed Humberto Leon and Carol Lim to take over from Antonio Marras in October. Paco Rabanne has well-placed its faith in the hands of our local hero Manish Arora,who is all set to debut this season too.

Story continues below this ad

All this juggling is not necessarily a bad thing; it creates more stars and the competition is scissor-sharp. I can think of several Indian designers who would do us a favour by bringing in some freshness to their repetitive labels.

But it isnt all kosher either,simply because a label needs to build its brand slowly and surely in order to last long. The designer needs time to grow into the label and allow his mark to merge with the labels signature. This gives the brand its brand value. But how is this possible with this new high-stake,here-and-now fashion world where the profit is everything and the shareholder is king?namratanow@gmail.com

Stay updated with the latest - Click here to follow us on Instagram