The Language of Textiles

to India.

His Background

Atkinson is essentially an artist,trained in painting,drawing and art history. “My interest was in art,but I didn’t have the precocity as a teenager to concentrate solely on art. I felt that textiles would be more vocational,” says the graduate of Winchester School of Art. Atkinson’s influences are varied — music,poetry,history,art,philosophy and nature.

His fabric

Exploring the effect of light on an embroidered surface,Atkinson makes use of reflective mirrors and foils,sequins with embroidery,and panels of framed fabric,among others. “For me,light is the inspiration,particularly natural light as it continuously changes and transforms everything we see,” he says. Along with India influences — seen through his use of Assam silk,hilika natural dyes and silk matka for some of the works — Atkinson uses the simplicity and refinement of Japanese design.

His Journey in India

It all started with a chance viewing of Satyajit Ray’s Pather Panchali in 1991,which set him off on a classic trail of Agra,Jodhpur,Jaipur,Pushkar,Shekawati,Kerala and Varanasi,among others. “I was good at finding special,sometimes heirloom,pieces which were easily available but still hidden from most tourists,” he says. Particularly enchanted by the turbans and mirror work from Rajasthan (“Their dress gives them a sense of belonging,identity and community”),his journey began from 1997 onwards.

His Process

“How does one approach one’s own creations,as a westerner? How does one do justice to the skill of the craftsmen,whose techniques have passed down through many generations and are so often sadly squandered on throw-away low cost consumer junk?” Atkinson often wonders as he blurs cultural and geographical boundaries in design and sourcing base clothes. “My approach is to carefully but intuitively observe regional styles and skills of craftsmen,and to then interpret them in a distilled form,with the highest quality of fabric and often with what will look like a very simple but usually labour-intensive execution,” he explains. About his style inevitably seeping into the traditional works,he says,“Discerning

Indian clients have responded to something which is familiar but looks quite new to them,” he says.

His Oeuvre

After years in the fashion industry,along with his own luxury brand of shawls,he decided to delve into the interior and architectural design world. “I’ve worked with many architects,including Peter Marino in New York and Jonathan Reed in London,” he says.

Next in India,from India

Working on getting his collection to India,Atkinson says,“India now has a growing refinement in museums and galleries which had not been a part of its past.”

In addition,the fabric panels from “Light on India: Light from Japan”,which Atkinson has designed to look like paintings,are a part of an ongoing project. Currently,working on projects in London and Doha,Atkinson will also show in Hamptons,New York and Mustique.