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This is an archive article published on March 1, 2012

Spaghetti and Golf Balls

An Italian fine dine restaurant on a golf course hits a hole in one.

How far would you be willing to travel to eat a meal? In Europe,people are ready to travel cross-country for one. But since quite a few European countries are the size of Delhi,driving out of the Capital for a dinner may just be something to write home about. How about Greater Noida — a journey perceived as daunting even by inveterate foodies? However,in the case of La Brezza,the destination justifies it.

Located in Jaypee Green Golf and Spa Resort,the 80-cover split-level restaurant is actually two concepts in one space. The upper-story is a fine dine restaurant while the lower level is an enoteca (Italian for ‘wine respository’). The enoteca is meant as a more casual area where guests can sit,sip some wine over some light fare,and generally unwind. There is a wide range of Italian wines (naturally) as well as a very respectable collection of wines from other countries. In the case of Australian wines,guests have the option of tasting different varieties before picking up one (or two,or several). As in Italy,where the enoteca is very similar to the Spanish tapas bar,most of the food served here is also light and convenient to eat.

The restaurant menu is more extensive and is (thankfully) quite different from the dime-a-dozen Italian eateries that dot the National Capital Region. The Penna alla Nonna is as diametrically opposite to the oh-so-common pasta puttanesca as one could wish — in recipe and in name. The sauce,made out of eggplants,Parmesan and Ricotta is fantastic. And speaking of eggplants,their Melenzane alla Parmigiana maybe a very common menu item in most Italian restaurants,but the way it’s made at La Brezza is surreal. First off,the eggplant is actually roasted to the point of being charred,giving it a really smoky flavor and completely neutralising any latent bitterness. Secondly,it’s grilled in a metallic bowl,transforming the entire dish into a gloriously gooey amalgamation of eggplant,mozzarella and in-house tomato sauce.

Then there’s the pizza. We had the Funghi e Tartufo (assorted mushroom pizza),which despite being devoid of any meat whatsoever,was probably the best pizza we’ve ever had. It’s amazing what difference a little white truffle oil can make. All in all,the only caterpillar in the salad,as P G Wodehouse so succinctly put it,is the sheer distance to Greater Noida. Otherwise,La Brezza looks poised to become the premier Italian dining establishment in the region.

Meal for two: Rs. 4,000 (inclusive of taxes,excluding alcohol) Address: Jaypee Greens Golf and Spa Resort,Surajpur Kasna Road,Greater Noida Contact: 0120-2324720

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