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This is an archive article published on July 20, 2014

Smoked Out

Smoky Chettinad, a tiny joint in East Delhi, is serving up the Chettinad storm in a bowl

Smokey Chettinad ‘s kitchen Smokey Chettinad ‘s kitchen

It all began with a doggy bag. Of sorts. A late-night raid on a friend’s fridge yielded a promising looking plastic container. In it, aside from an explosive fragrance of curry leaves, caramelised onions, charcoal and deeply-marinated chicken, lay an opalescent long- grained biryani winking at us in the pale yellow light, peeking out between those chilled shelves. Further investigation (post polishing off the contents, of course) reveals it to be a Chicken Chettinad Biryani from a place called Smoky Chettinad. The paradox of the rich complexity of its flavour yet that apparent lightness on the gullet and everything below, calls for a closer look.

Started by spousal duo, Gauthaman and Rohini, and operating out a tiny take-away tucked in Mayur Vihar Phase 1, Smoky Chettinad serves up exactly what its name implies, authentic Chettinad fare with every dish redolent with an inherent smokiness, courtesy judiciously generous amounts of pepper, curry leaves and the stone flower, more poetically known as pathar ka phool, sans an angry young man.

The number of dishes can be counted on less than two hands. The menu concentrates more on authenticity, a well thought out decision as we are to discover. Apart from the aforementioned Chicken Biryani (which is slow cooked in charcoal and made daily in limited quantity) the eatery dispenses a plethora of poultry preparations with a couple of vegetarian options of korma and biryani. Meat Biryani is available on the request of bulk orders. The prices are highly competitive with a meal for two setting you back about Rs 500 (with taxes).

The Chicken 65 and the Chettinad Chicken Curry are as authentic as the biryani — spicy, fragrant and peppery. However, this isn’t the spicy so beloved of Dilli: masaledar with more bite than a vampire; but rather a more fragrant, tingling flavour which lingers for a long time on your palate after the meal, even if wistfully. Something like smoke. We will be ordering in for a while.

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