Margherita Pizzazz

Understatement is not Rohit Bals thing. Over-the-top is more like him and when Gudda is not dancing wildly on bar tops,he can charm it to flamboyant visual pleasure.

Some delicious Italian entrees amid baroque exuberance

Understatement is not Rohit Bals thing. Over-the-top is more like him and when Gudda is not dancing wildly on bar tops,he can charm it to flamboyant visual pleasure. So what if his restaurant Veda is better known for its baroque exuberance than barra kebabs,he and partner Alok Aggarwal have decided to go forth. They have transformed a staid corner of the Hotel Janpath at Connaught Place to something out of the extravagant fantasies of a Roman emperor. Dont go looking for signage of their new Italian restaurant Cibo,but a majestic door will stare you down. And behind it is an ornate courtyard strewn with enormous monolithic structures and gold-plated figures,the centerpiece being a gigantic fountain with overblown bunches of metal grapes. On both ends of the courtyard are strips of portico dining. We aim to provide the experience of an old-world meal in a magnificent space, says Bal.

Indoors are dressed up in rich gold hues,and Bal has brought in some of his favourites from Veda large mirrors and high Winchester-style leather chairs. And now to the meal. We begin with Margherita Pizza (Rs 490) that arrives with seductive aromas of melting cheese. The thin base with slightly burnt edges is perfect and the tomatoes and cheese dressing are well-balanced. It took us three months to finalise the menu. We had to match the food with the beautiful décor, says chef Andrea Sposini,who heads the kitchen at Cibo.

Vegetarian food is impressively done and there is an option of eggless homemade pasta as well. Among starters,Insalata di Fagioli Bianchi (Rs 275),a warm salad of black-eyed beans with slivers of sage leaves,onions and a trickle of white wine,is just humbling. I have worked out a lot of recipes around vegetables since vegetarian diet is becoming popular, says Sposini,who has previously visited Mumbai and Bangalore for food festivals. A platter of Parmigiana Melanzane (Rs 475) is an outstanding entrée that puts together several slices of the baked purple vegetable with gooey slabs of cheese and is topped with a rich tomato sauce.

But seafood is something that Sposini is yet unsure of: In Delhi,it is easy to source good fish but the quality varies every day. There are some seafood recipes that I have to change daily to go with the texture of fish. Spiedino di Gamberi (Rs 800) brings freshly charcoaled shrimps and peppers on skewers,along with a basket of assorted breads. Sposinis version of Pollo Alla Cacciatora (Rs 625),a classic chicken preparation,is simple. Pieces of chicken simmered with tomatoes are served with a generous helping of chopped vegetables. Risotto Pomodoro (Rs 575) serves starchy Italian rice with overtones of tomatoes. Once the liquor licence is in,the bar will roll out a wine menu with pairing for each dish. We plan to introduce some interesting Italian wines to go with the food, says the chef,because back home wine is an important part of the meal.

Meal for two: Rs 2,000
Contact: 43029291
Location: Hotel Janpath

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Margherita Pizzazz

Understatement is not Rohit Bals thing. Over-the-top is more like him  and when Gudda is not dancing wildly on bar tops,he can charm it to flamboyant visual pleasure.

Understatement is not Rohit Bals thing. Over-the-top is more like him and when Gudda is not dancing wildly on bar tops,he can charm it to flamboyant visual pleasure.