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This is an archive article published on July 12, 2014

Going Bamboo

A pan-asian eatery at Connaught Place offers a sumptuous culinary journey through the Orient.

The split-level restaurant resembles the set of a period film on the Far East, modified to modern sensibilities. The split-level restaurant resembles the set of a period film on the Far East, modified to modern sensibilities.

Asian seems to be the flavour of the season for the Capital with a number of eateries offering cuisine from the region sprouting up like mushrooms on an oak tree. A recent example is China House by Q’BA, which occupies the space that was formerly @live in Connaught Place.

The split-level restaurant resembles the set of a period film on the Far East, modified to modern sensibilities. The white brick walls are adorned with beaten metal orchids while the lacquered wooden ceiling hung with canvas-and-parchment umbrellas which spin and trill to the drafts of both the air-conditioning and ambient music. A wrought-iron candelabra dominates the space and completes the seeming transition from reel to real.

The menu is a journey down the Silk Route, picking up a multitude of dishes from across the Orient, though concentrating on Chinese fare; the nation’s recent Western leanings nicely reflected in a large, variegated alcohol menu. The prices are capitalistically competitive with dishes at an average price of around Rs 350.

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Given the array of choices, it takes us a while to narrow our starters selection down to the Slow Fried Chicken Basil Chicken Spring Rolls and the Calamari Pepper and Salt supplemented with a cross-section of dimsums. No broad, oil-drenched morsels these, the spring rolls are long and taut, and brim-filled with chunks of delicious basil-scented chicken. The calamari is accompanied with a piping hot chilli garlic sauce and mixed together, it is a cocktail of textures and flavours. The dim sums, comprising chicken, prawn and water chestnut varietals go down swimmingly with their three accompanying sauces — a zesty celery concoction, homemade chilli sauce and a burnt garlic offering, each lending a distinct coating to the hot pockets.

The mains comprise Chicken in Black Bean Sauce and Stir Fried Prawns in Oyster Sauce with our favoured Chilli Garlic Noodles. The douchi (the traditional name for the fermented soy bean paste so favoured by the Chinese) sauce is pungent and salty. The chicken pieces in it having enthusiastically soaked in the flavours of the so-called ‘black bean’. The prawn is a fiery affair consisting of large shellfish tossed with summer veggies and is equally riveting and it’s with little embarrassment and more gusto that we mix it together with the spunky noodles to create a kind of glorified Chinese khichdi. The results are expectedly palatable.

Meal for two: Rs 1,400  (including taxes)

Address: K-12, Outer Circle, Connaught Place. Contact: 33036792

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