‘I like Delhi because it’s not an easy place. It needs… time and indulging’: German Ambassador Philipp Ackermann

From 2006-2007, he headed the German Provincial Reconstruction Team in Kunduz, Afghanis-tan. Between 2007 and 2010, he served as political counsellor in New Delhi (India). He was Deputy Head of Mission in Washington DC from 2014 to 2016. In Berlin, he worked between 2002 and 2006 in the offices of Federal Foreign Ministers Joschka Fischer and Frank-Walter Steinmeier. From 2010 to 2014 he held the position of Head of Task

Force Afghanistan-Pakistan in the Federal Foreign Office and as Deputy Special Representative for Afghanistan and Pakistan. Before being assigned his current job, he was Director General for Africa, Latin America, Near and Middle East at the Federal Foreign Office for five years.

Ackermann spoke to The Indian Express for the second in a series of interviews with Ambassadors about Delhi — their home. Edited excerpts:

What is your favourite spot in Delhi?

… It’s incredibly difficult to say… so, let me give you a diplomatic answer. Historically and aesthetically, Humayun’s Tomb — it’s one of the most beautiful buildings I know… When you want to feel the spirit of Delhi, I would say Chandni Chowk… It’s bustling, you have the merchants and traders and there’s food everywhere. When it comes to Delhi as a Rajdhani, I would say what used to be the Rajpath between India Gate and Rashtrapati Bhawan is maybe the most impressive expression of the Republic of India. I think they have done a great job in restoring it. You see lots of people there having picnics on the grass. It’s a park but it shows the history and grandeur, and you realise what a big nation this is.

Can you list three things that have stood out in your stay so far?

The visit to the Nizamuddin Auliya shrine is something I’ll never forget. It’s a moment where people were praying during Ramadan and they started breaking their fast. Being fed by the community in such a peaceful and beautiful place, amid a very bustling and poor neighbourhood, was a very touching moment for me.

Kite flying on the roofs of Old Delhi is also something I really like. You stand on the roof of houses and you see all these boys and girls, an army of kites in the air, and pigeons in between… And you see the sun setting and the Jama Masjid… it’s a miraculous and unforgettable moment.

I’m a bird watcher. South Delhi is incredibly green… I have the enormous privilege of living in a residence with a great garden. What I find remarkable is the variety of birds that come in the morning and evening. I have a little book and I write everything down in it. I think I found 41 species of birds in my garden alone… You see the occasional Ibis coming in, the Myna, and the parakeets. You also have some strange visitors that you wouldn’t expect sometimes. I find this very touching because who would have thought that in this civilisation, you would find so much nature?

Your go-to locations to eat or order from?

I don’t order because I think if I want to have good food, I go there… You get fabulous food at Karim’s in Old Delhi. If you are going for the meaty part of Indian food, go there. When you go to Paranthe Wali Gali in Chandni Chowk, you have a lot of little vegetarian stores where you get excellent meals – nicely spiced. I’m not afraid of getting sick because everything is cooked well. I really appreciate the variety of street food.

You can also have fabulous star-like food in Delhi. The opposite of going to Paranthe Wali Gali is going to Indian Accent restaurant where you feel Indian cuisine has reached a new dimension and every meal is a feast. So, I like both. I sometimes offer my friends a meal at Indian Accent, but not too often as it’s very pricey. Sometimes when I’m visiting Old Delhi with visitors, I will take them to Karim’s.

Favourite food?

When it comes to Northwestern cuisine, Gobhi Aloo is something that I like. It’s interesting because I don’t like potatoes and I don’t like cauliflower. But the combination, I find very convincing… I think a good kebab with very finely minced meat is also something which I like.

Are there any encounters that will stay with you?

I have a very good story that I found very touching, but I don’t know what you will make of it. I was with my friends at Red Fort. I had seen it many times before so I told them to go in and I will read a book outside… A young Indian guy – must be 22 or something – came to me and said ‘Sir can I talk to you?’. My first reaction is ‘What does he want… what’s his intention’. But he looked nice enough so I said why not. And then he said to me, ‘I have to talk to you because I haven’t talked to anyone in 24 hours’. He came to Delhi to get a scholarship but couldn’t get it, which made him a little sad. But what made him very sad was that he was completely alone in Delhi… He said ‘You have to understand, I am from Gujarat… I had my friends in the university.’ Then he started telling me about his life. I was surprised at how well-informed he was about Germany. We had a very nice conversation. When he was about to leave, he said, ‘I think life is all about making other people happy’. I found that very sweet. It’s a very nice approach to things… I hope he has made a good life.

How would you describe Delhi to someone who’s never been here?

If you want to find your way through Delhi, you have to invest time. Unlike Mumbai or other cities in India, it’s not a city that jumps in your face. You must know where to go.

New Delhi was never a city that grew around one centre. You had seven Delhis. Even today, there is no clear “centre” of Delhi. When you go out, you have to go elsewhere. When you have to shop, you have to go to another centre. And that is what makes Delhi unique.

When I go to buy books, I go to Lodhi Colony. When I want to go to have a good meal, I go to New Friends Colony. When I want to go have a beer, I go to Hauz Khas village. That’s the charm of Delhi – that it’s not overly obvious. You have to find out the intricacies and the offer the city has for you. I find that very convincing. I like Delhi because it’s not an easy place. It needs some time and some indulging.

What will you miss about the city?

The answer is easy. I would say the people. I would miss my friends in Delhi who are so nice and hospitable, interesting and funny. Also, my wonderful staff. People you grow attached to – you start to know their families, their problems, and their achievements. They know a lot about your life also. There is a symbiotic relationship with these people that I will dearly miss. India is all about people. I think I’m not looking forward to leaving them behind.