From Tagores’ Closet

It was early 19th century. Bengal was going through Renaissance. In the era that marked the State’s transition from medieval to modern,one of the most influential families was the Tagores’. Occupants of an 18th century mansion,Thakorbari,in Jorasanko,a residential neighbourhood in old Kolkata,one of the sons,Rabindranath,went on to become a Nobel laureate,while Abanindranath emerged as a prominent artist. Satyendranath was the first Indian to join the Indian Civil Service in 1864. Jyotirindranath was a playwright and musician. Their contributions in their respective fields have been much talked about,but one hasn’t read about the ethnic ilk’s sartorial choices,inspired from their travels. Now,the sartorial fashion of the Tagore family has inspired a theatrical presentation,Thakur Barir Saaj Poshak. Staged on Friday at Azad Bhavan,the production conceptualised by Indian Council for Cultural Relations and choreographed by Kolkata-based Neelay Sengupta,commemorated the 150 birth centenary of Rabindranath Tagore. “Their experiments led to their house-bound women finding a place in the outside world,” says historian Reba Som,who contributed to the conceptualisation and scripting.

Showcasing the evolution of the sari — from how it was worn in the 18th century in the Tagore house to now — the colourful presentation opened with a group of women dressed in elegant Bengali handloom six yards,with a bride and her maids. Next,young girls appeared in frocks combined with tight pyjamas,a costume designed by Rabindranath’s father,Maharshi Debendranath Tagore,for girls who were educated by male tutors in the house.

“The sense of style followed by the family was inspired by various parts of the country,apart from the West,” says Som.

Known as the queen of haute fashion,Jnanadanandini,who was married to Rabindranath’s younger brother,Satyendranath,meanwhile,lived in Mumbai for a while and returned to Kolkata wearing the ‘Bombay style’ of draping a sari,that was a take-off from Parsi culture. This was showcased by models on the stage,who wore a heavily bordered white sari,with an umbrella and elaborate headdresses.

Som adds that the Tagores’ did not just inspire women’s fashion. Men too aped Jyotirindranath Tagore,who tried to fuse dhoti with the trousers,leading to a disastrous combination. Bard of Bengali literature,Rabindranath,was also a trendsetter,with his trademark long loose robe,that was a combination of the Japanese Kimono and the Sikkim Bako. “These styles influenced what people wore in those days and how fashion evolved,” says Som,even as she looks at 45 digital prints of Rabindranath’s artworks that are also on display at a gallery inside the Bhavan.