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An Indifferent Grill

A North Indian restaurant in the heart of Punjabi Dilli fails to whet the appetite.

Rajouri Garden has always been regarded as one of Delhi’s most prominent Punjabi neighbourhoods and the restaurants in the area are an ample reflection of its residents. Unabashed and robust,and everything else that the description entails. To this delicious milieu,Indus Grill makes an unusual addition in that the eatery is just so reserved.

The décor is neat and unpretentious,with pieces of attractive albeit utilitarian wooden furniture,and simple cutlery and crockery. There are recorded acoustic renditions of popular music with the same guitar strumming out tunes ranging from Billie Jean to the Pirates of the Caribbean title track. Bizarre but soothing. The service staff is polite and attentive.

The menu is — in one word — standard. For those who want to know what a typical North Indian restaurant is like,look no further,ladies and gentlemen. All the usual suspects from kebabs to rogan josh to dum aloo to the staple that is butter chicken — everything is present.

Since nothing really jumps out as new or unusual,we decide to stick to the old faithfuls. We start with Tandoori Chicken Wings (Rs 285) that tastes and look exactly what it sounds like: a decent plate of marinated chicken wings cooked in the tandoor. Next up is the main course,which comprises Kadhai Jhinga or curried prawns (Rs 395) and Dum Ka Murg (Rs 325),accompanied by buttered tandoori and roomali rotis. The prawns are well-cooked,so is the chicken. The flavour is fine — just that. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the food; it is well presented,well-proportioned,well-cooked and well-flavoured but well,that’s it.

Nothing stands out,no dish makes one sigh with pleasure. It is merely extremely serviceable restaurant food (read mass produced),no more,no less.

Indus Grill,Shop No. 5&6,Ground Floor,TDI Mall,Raja Garden Contact: 25459512-13 Meal for two: Rs 1,500 (including taxes,excluding alcohol)

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