A yearning for the past,often in an idealised way could explain nostalgia. Once inside The Imperial,different people experience nostalgia differently. Someone wants to peep into a roomful of Daniels and Zoltikoff etchings that show Tipu Sultan giving his sons as hostages to Lord Cornwallis. Another wants to gape at a sepia image of the Delhi Durbar during the Raj. Even if Janpath was then known as Queensway,The Imperial was always The Imperial,and so nostalgia will always be used to describe it. Quite understandably,the hotel itself has cradled this theme to launch a new menu from September 1 at 1911,the Brasserie. New is an odd word as the food is retro European fare,predominantly French brought back from the Sixties and before. Served with piano recitals every day and the saxophone on weekends,surrounded by posters from old Hollywood classics,the restaurant promises a journey back in time,whether you feel it through a perfectly poached egg sitting demurely on a plate of Salad Lyonnaise or a crumbly-crunchy lemon tart. Besides salad Lyonnaise,we also ordered Shrimp Luis for starters during the sampling dinner. The shrimps and avocado were taut,fresh,cool-cold and flavoured with an aromatic French cocktail sauce. If you are a soup person,do not pass over the classic French Onion soup; there are few things as authentic as the taste of golden fried onions,taken off the fire before they singe too much. Our main course orders were pan-fried,boneless Himalayan trout (Rainbow Trout Amandine) with slivered almonds and a sirloin steak carved with potatoes and baby vegetables (Grilled Entrecote,Café du Paris). For dessert came the lemon tart,which looked tarty alright,with raspberry coulis that imitated the thickness and texture of tomato puree,but tasted like fresh fruit honey. The food is nostalgia-inducing,especially for those who love to nurse memories of their evenings in Paris. But for the entire experience to swing you back in time,1911 may want to consider that in 2011 even nostalgia is demanding,it needs more than an Audrey Hepburn poster and a saxophonist to transport you into pastness. The muted restaurant with soft candlelight is a good place for adults to indulge in lingering conversation,not for the young and the restless. A meal for two with alcohol could set you back by more than Rs 5000.
