Haute and Cool

While all brides-to-be endlessly debate on what they would wear on their wedding day,26-year-old Suhani Sidhu says she was only thinking of all that she couldn’t. Quintessential bridal fabrics such as “heavy” silk,brocade and velvet,in her case,had been ruled out. Though initial plans were for a December wedding,Sidhu’s family had to prepone the dates to early September as her fiance based in Australia had to juggle an important assignment. We met Sidhu at the recently concluded Wedding Asia exhibition at Taj Chandigarh where she was hard at work – walking through stalls,sifting through the racks and trying on outfits. “I want to wear an A-line churidaar suit preferably in georgette in a pastel colour as the weather will be really sultry,” remarked Sidhu as she discussed an embroidered jacket by designer Amit Talwar,with her mother. The designer on his part offered a collection that balanced the need for Punjabi bling but in fabrics that can be sported all through the year. “There is no denying the fact that traditional Indian embroideries look best on rich fabrics such as silk and velvet but that restricts the garment’s wearability,” said Talwar. Working with chantilly lace,“butterfly” nets (not to be confused with the botanical variety),chiffon and georgette in colours such as fuschia,powder blue and rust,Talwar’s collection had no room for traditional lehengas. Instead they are “gown-suits” which are styled like bottom heavy anarkalis,only they are much more flouncy,with embellished corsets or high collars. “Brides today want Indian bling but prefer Western styling. Also these outfits are very light to wear,as we use mostly easy to drape fabrics like net,” explained Talwar,adding how once “most wanted” stone and sequin work has again made way for zardozi and aari embroideries.

The “ghere wala lehenga” gave up its popularity last season to the fish-cut type and now it’s the turn of the “anarkali” flaunting traditional embroideries. Panchkula-based designer Shruti Singla,who specialises in trousseau agrees with the shift in style. “I have always tried to contemporise traditional arts and they work equally well with lighter materials such as crepe and georgette,” says Singla whose latest collection offers pastels combined with subtle detailing like aari embroidery and graded shading,especially in lehengas.

To cater to brides looking for summer-friendly D-day outfits,designer Swati Srivastav showcased her collection recently at the multi-designer store Tatva in Sector 17. Her choice of fabrics — matka silk,crepe,chiffon and crinkled lycra. Working on the drapes,Srivastav’s collection offers “four-slit jacket anarkali suits” with floor-kissing hemlines. “These can be worn with churidaars as suits and without one as a dress,” remarked Srivastav. Pre-stitched net and crepe saris with jewelled blouses,kurtis teamed with embroidered salwars and Jodhpuri churidaars complete the collection. “In the heat you want to wear fluid silhouettes and that’s what I have worked on,” says Srivastav.

If the bride is stepping out of velvet lehengas,can grooms shed the sherwani too? Designer Dhruv Vaish,who specialises in contemporary menswear,feels there are many options to try. “It’s not just brides who want to look different on their wedding day,” says Vaish,who is looking to cater to an increasing demand and has put together a collection of summer styles for grooms. Leading the line-up are dhoti salwars paired with short achkans with minimal fuss (read embroidery). “Indian weddings require the bride and groom to be seated on ground level and the Sherwani and churidaar can be uncomfortable on a hot summer evening,” says Vaish. The salwar for men made using 15 metres of fabric is comfortable (he’s even added pant-style zippers for comfort) and light. “The Jodhpuri jacket in linen has been a hot-seller this summer,” admits Vaish who recommends cotton silk for a summer wedding. “Pin-tucks and thread embroidery work well with such fabrics,” he sums up. Sounds cool.