To address the challenge of capturing global markets for Banarasi sarees, a project to brand the handloom products as “green fabric” has been proposed by the Varanasi-based Human Welfare Association (HWA) to attract international buyers. The project, supported by the European Commission, the executive body of the European Union (EU), Tradecraft (United Kingdom) and All-India Artisans and Craftsworkers Association (New Delhi), aims to uplift the handloom sector by branding the Banarasi sarees as eco-friendly to make it more attractive and saleable in international markets, existing and new. Called ‘Going Green’, the project was launched officially in July, with its first workshop held on August 21. A network of over 25 NGOs, SAREL (State Alliance for Rights, Empowerment and Livelihood), would also be helping with the advocacy of the project. Nitesh Dhawan, Assistant Commissioner (Handloom), UP government, who also coordinates the handloom programmes of the Centre and the state, said: “The project is at the advocacy stage. A detailed proposal will be sent to the Government of India. During our first meeting on August 21, we presented a list of suggestions and our job will be primarily to provide advocacy. To uplift this sector, branding is necessary. Apart from things like getting the Geographical Identification (GI) tag, promoting the fabric as eco-friendly would not only find more international buyers, but also help the sector earn carbon credits, which can bring in more funding in the sector.” Dr Rajni Kant of HWA, which played an instrumental role in getting the GI tag for Banarasi sarees, said: “We have selected three rural segments — Lohata, Kotwa and Ram Nagar in Varanasi, for the project. We are planning to target nearly 5,000 weavers, including women who help in the process, to take to using only organic materials in developing the product. As it is, a handloom product is made using hands and there is no real pollution. The only point, where chemicals or synthetic materials come into play, is in dying of the fabric and the raw material. We will advocate use of organic dyes and natural raw materials, so that these products can be marketed in the international segment as a ‘green product’.” Asked if it was a feasible task, Dr Kant said: “We will need support from the government. Not many know that the dye used in world famous Bhadohi carpet is organic, because the products made from chemical dyes are banned in its niche markets like America and Europe. So, if we can provide the required material and dis-incentivise use of chemicals, people will automatically switch over.” Apart from Varanasi, some clusters of handloom, such as that of hand-block printing, have also been selected in Rajasthan under the same project, said Dr Kant.
