Beside the traffic congestion, pollution and cleanliness remains a cause of worry for the city which is a big tourist attraction.
Varanasi, the spiritual capital and the cultural centre of North India is situated on the bank of river Ganga. The holy city of Sadhus and Ghats, which is believed to bring salvation, is one of the most colourful and fascinating places on earth. Varanasi also holds importance in Indian politics for being the Lok Sabha constituency of Prime Minister Narendra Modi. And with polling date fast approaching, IndianExpress.com tried to assess the mood of people here, starting with the famous tea stalls at Assi Ghat which is a converging point of intellectuals where political debates often happen on glass of tea and old radio songs. And views here are often contrary.
“Since it is the parliamentary constituency of the prime minister and in state there is government ruled by Samajwadi Party, the pace of development work is slow comparatively,” said Professor Deobrat Chaubey, BHU. “All the candidates of the BJP are contesting on the name of Modi. In Varanasi, the image of Modi is still intact. He still holds the respect which he had during 2014 Lok Sabha polls,” asserted Kaushal Kishore Mishra, who teaches political science at the famous Banaras Hindu University.
“It is time for young leaders. And I believe the alliance between SP and Congress will be good for the future of Uttar Pradesh. Akhilesh is a youth leader and with Rahul Gandhi’s support, UP will see good governance in the coming time,” said Vikash who runs a jewellery shop.
A dip in Ganga, can wash away your sin, that is the popular belief. But the current state of the river suggest otherwise.
The city, however, is battling with its own set of problems which so far have not been mentioned in poll campaigns. As you walk out of Varanasi station, you are greeted by the big hoardings of political parties and the encroachment by roadside vendors, causing traffic congestion. Most of the roads here in a pathetic condition due to laying of pipelines or power cables. And absence of footpath for pedestrians has made the situation grimmer. While the municipal commissioner was not available for comment, his deputy refused to talk to us. However, the local Ward Councillor attributed the traffic woes to the failed policy of BJP.
“The Mayor here is from BJP. Three MLAs are from that party. Even the the MP now is from Varanasi. They have been ruling this place for last thirty years. And they are responsible for the pathetic condition of the city,” said Afzal Ansari, Councillor, Ward 80.
Read Also: UP elections 2017: Akhilesh govt creating hurdles in development of Varanasi, says PM Modi
Beside the traffic congestion, pollution and cleanliness remains a cause of worry for the city which is a big tourist attraction. A dip in Ganga, can wash away your sin, that is the popular belief. But the current state of the river suggest otherwise. With sewage and industry flowing in the river, dhobis washing cloths and uninterrupted cremation work at the bank, the toxic level of Ganga remains hazardous.
With sewage and industry flowing in the river, dhobis washing cloths and uninterrupted cremation work at the bank, the toxic level of Ganga remains hazardous.
Surprisingly, the cleaning of Ganga does not even feature in the poll manifesto of the BJP, despite the prime minister’s vow to make the river pollution free after coming to power in 2014. The experts working on Ganga have more saddening details to share on the state of the river.
“Some thirty thousand dead bodies are burnt here with the help of around 16000 tones of wood annually. And in this process around 800 tones of ashes are flown in Ganga. Moreover, there is a belief that the bodies should not be burnt completely and the remaining half-burnt flesh content should be thrown into the river. There is also a tradition of not burning children and animal bodies and directly immersing them in the river. All this has polluted the river to an alarming level,” said Professor BD Tropathy, a scientist associated with Clean Ganga mission.
Though the environmentalists have always pitched for electric cremation, majority Hindu believe that open cremation helps the soul in getting easily released as soon as the body is burned atop a massive pile of wood. It is also alleged that the sandalwood mafia often sabotage the electrical cremation for their own benefits.
Though the environmentalists have always pitched for electric cremation, majority Hindu believe that open cremation helps the soul in getting easily released as soon as the body is burned atop a massive pile of wood.
“We got an electric crematorium installed here. But the wood mafia often sabotage it to make money,” said Swami Jiteendranath, President Ganga Mahasabha.
Though Modi’s Namami Ganga Project raised many hope of Clean Ganga..it is still to make any impact. While the prime minister claims to share a mother-son relation with Ganga, the mother is seriously looking for her son. And if not looked after, she may also punish him. But despite the Ganga apathy, the locals here have strong faith on Modi’s model of development.
Despite the Ganga apathy, the locals here have strong faith on Modi’s model of development.
“Only Modi can clean Ganga. Not Congress, not Akhilesh. Modi is Ganga’s son. He will not allow his mother to remain dirty,” said a boatman. “Only Modi can develop Varanasi. Nobody can stop him. BJP is coming to power,” said a group of auto drivers near Varanasi station.
But there exists a big section which is divided over casting its vote. These are the weavers and artisans belonging to Muslim community who are the strong workforce of the Varanasi handloom industry. Modi’s renewed focus on this sector and his flagship programmes like “Guru Shisya Prampara” had brought hope for the wavers. But the government’s demonetisation drive had hit them hard and put them in a state of confusion. They are also scared after the recent polarising statements by the prime minister himself and his loyalists
“We want Modi to come to power and bring new schemes for the artisans. We had the opportunity to learn the art of weaving and embroidery, but we want our skill to get recognised in international market,” said Sabana, an artisan.
“Demonetisation had hit us badly. We had to struggle a lot to make our ends meet after November 8,” said Tariq, who is a weaver. The Muslims here believe that they have always been ditched by Congress, SP and BSP, but still they can’t vote for the BJP. “The kind of statement their leaders give, we are always in a state of fear. And that is why we vote to the parties that can stop the communal groups from coming to the power,” said Ramzan Ali, a national awardee weaver.
However, there is also a group of Muslim weavers that has a different view. These traditional boonkars and zadodri workers who make stuffs used in worship of Hindu god believe the demonetisation drive was for good. They claim to have benefited a lot from the weaver friendly programme of the Modi government and hopes to see BJP government in Uttar Pradesh.
“I want to see BJP coming to power in Uttar Pradesh. I am thankful to the Centre for launching schemes like Guru Shisya Prampara that gave employment opportunities to the unemployed Muslims here. I believe they will come up with more such schemes for the weavers and artisans,” said Kazim Raza, Manufacturer and supplier of embroidery works.
From Banarasi sarees to handmade carpet and black pottery all have earned the GI tag and now wait for their exposure to international markets.
“We want Modi to come to power and bring new schemes for the artisans. We had the opportunity to learn the art of weaving and embroidery, but we want our skill to get recognised in international market,” said Sabana, an artisan.
Unfortunately, the handloom sector also remains neglected in the poll campaigns. Varanasi today is the hub of signature products protected under Intellectual Property Rights as eight of the products made here have earned Geographical Indication (GI) tags. From Banarasi sarees to handmade carpet and black pottery all have earned the GI tag and now wait for their exposure to international markets. Dr Rajnikant who is the chairman of Human Welfare Association and guided many unemployed Muslims to the work of weaving believes that dividing these artists on religious lines will only bring harm to handloom business and Varanasi art.
“I think polarisation and divisive politics will only harm the handloom sector. I want the future government to pay special attention to the handloom sector and get maximum GI tags for the Varanasi products,” said Dr Rajnikant.
Varanasi goes to polls on March 8. Three of the urban constituencies of the city have BJP MLAs. But the infighting this time has put the party on sticky wicket this time. It will be interesting to see if people have their faith in Modi intact or the Ganga negligence and demonetisation has made dent in BJP’s Varanasi vote bank.


