Opinion Not just Kakori Kebab: The immortal legacy of Chef Imtiaz Qureshi

He was not just a chef — he was an ustad dedicated to his craft and a mentor generous with his wisdom.

At 31, against the backdrop of the India-China war of 1962, Chef Imtiaz Qureshi was commissioned to concoct exclusively vegetarian dishes by then chief minister of Uttar Pradesh, C B Gupta, who was fond of Awadhi cuisine.

Sadaf Hussain

February 21, 2024 09:55 AM IST First published on: Feb 18, 2024 at 06:00 PM IST

In times past, chefs from Awadh and Rampur had been celebrated for their gastronomic subterfuge in crafting dishes that masqueraded as one thing whilst being something else. At 31, against the backdrop of the India-China war of 1962, Chef Imtiaz Qureshi was commissioned to concoct exclusively vegetarian dishes by then chief minister of Uttar Pradesh, C B Gupta, who was fond of Awadhi cuisine. A committed meat eater and son of a butcher who supplied meat to the British army in Lucknow, Qureshi eagerly took on the challenge. He spent a week using all the cooking skills he had learned to make dishes like Lotus Stem Shami Kebab with chilli, onion, green chilli, lemon, and orange; Murgh Musallam with jackfruit and brinjal instead of chicken; Fish Musallam with bottle gourd instead of fish; and Paneer Pasanda. The distinguished guests, including then Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru, to whom these dishes were served thought they were eating meat, but they were actually enjoying completely vegetarian dishes.

As I write this tribute to the nation’s first celebrity chef, I find myself at Khan Market, indulging in the exquisite flavours of Kakori Kebab — a delicacy whose resurgence owes much to the maestro himself. In an interview from 2018, Chef Qureshi recalled that for over a century, the recipe for the Kakori Kebab was known only to a few families in Lucknow, and Qureshi’s forebears prepared them for affluent households during special events. He attributed their introduction into contemporary Indian cuisine to the late Ajit Narain Haksar, the first Indian Chairman of ITC Limited, who brought Chef Qureshi into ITC in 1976.

Born to Murad Ali and Sakina Qureshi, Qureshi was the fifth child out of nine boys and two girls. In a TedX talk, he reminisced about his visits to the cantonment where chefs from the military kitchen would treat him to ice cream or pudding. This became a cherished routine, one that filled him with enough excitement to wake up early each morning and make the journey on a horse-drawn cart.

At the age of nine, he began working at his brother-in-law Haji Ishaq’s catering service. By the age of 15, he was already skilled in preparing sheermal, korma, galouti kebabs and pulao, and even catered to 10,000 members of the NCC at one time. This experience ignited a passion for his work, leading him to start his own catering business. But destiny had other plans for him and his journey took a significant turn when he started working for Prem Rai Tondon, the owner of Krishna Hotel in Hazratganj, Lucknow. This position brought him into close contact with C B Gupta.

It was at the grand finale of MasterChef India in 2019 that I met Chef Qureshi for the first time. Overwhelmed with nervous excitement, I introduced myself and initiated a conversation about the art of cooking — discussing food, spices, techniques, and everything culinary that crossed my mind. Chef Qureshi imparted wisdom that I still hold dear: “Sadaf, the most important aspect of cooking is to truly understand the food and the spices you’re incorporating. Whether you’re using a single spice or fifty, the essence lies in comprehending the purpose behind each addition and mastering the quantity. Once you grasp this, you’re on your way to creating the finest dishes.”

The second encounter I had with him was at another event in Delhi, and this time, to my delight, he recognised me. I expressed my gratitude for all that he has done for young aspiring chefs and culinary historians like myself. His response was both encouraging and inspirational. He said, “Sadaf, continue your work. We need more people like you who can document food and carry on the tradition. Do not hesitate to put in extra effort, and keep at it until you are completely satisfied.” It is perhaps this relentless dedication that led him to become the first chef to be honoured with a Padma Shri award in 2016, marking a significant milestone in his illustrious career.

I have always regarded him more as an Ustad than a chef. An Ustad transcends the confines of cookbook instructions, offering life lessons, encouraging the embrace of mistakes as stepping stones to learning. Chef Manisha Bhasin, the Corporate Executive Chef at ITC Hotels, who apprenticed under Chef Qureshi, told me, “For many of us burgeoning chefs, working alongside him was nothing short of a dream. His critiques could make us tremble, yet when he imparted his knowledge, it was with an unparalleled depth of care and affection.”

The passing of Imtiaz Qureshi — who was also known as Pehelwan Qureshi, due to his early training in wrestling — marks the end of an era. He was known for his encouragement towards all, his humility, and eagerness to learn from others. His legacy endures not only through his legendary culinary creations but also through the extraordinary journey that defined his life and touched so many.

The writer is a chef and author.