Opinion Giorgio Armani’s secret strength: Sussing out what society really needed

Armani is known for softening the lines of traditional tailoring to enable a more relaxed and modern silhouette. He took away the restrictiveness around the suit, popularising a more malleable silhouette. Allowing for this relaxation to permeate a dense, image-conscious and “will suffer for fashion” atmosphere was a huge gift to the fashion world, and beyond. We now understand that when we sense “ease in life” we are much more of our true selves and hence able to meet our life goals with ease. 

A man with an incandescent vision for his times, he was inclusive and promoted diversity. Celebrating women of all shapes and sizes, Armani rejected the use of excessively thin models. He is known to have publicly encouraged a healthier BMI for models. His stand went a long way in galvanising a bigger movement and mind shift towards a positive body image. As a designer and woman, I feel grateful that we have had people to change this unhealthy narrative. It is by no means a battle we have won and we continue to grapple with misguided and sometimes tragic issues with respect to body image. 

Armani was born on July 11, 1934 in Piacenza, a lovely town in northern Italy, by the river Po,  that is famous for its mediaeval architecture and elegant cuisine. He often spoke about the impact of World War II on his childhood. He once said,“War taught me that not everything is glamorous.”

The young Armani went on to study medicine but dropped out. Eventually, he found himself as a window dresser. In his view, it was on the shop floor that most of his education unfolded. He went on to work with Nino Cerruti, where his skills were noticed. He was soon asked to restructure the company. At some point, he met the young architect Sergio Galeotti, which was the start of a monumental partnership. A Volkswagen owned by one of them was sold to raise capital for their initial enterprise. From there, it was a fast-paced journey, which included the unforgettable designs for Richard Gere in American Gigolo (1980). 

Armani’s master act

Armani’s contribution to fashion went beyond menswear to also suits for women. Women felt liberated from the stiff and stuffy dresses worn by earlier generations. Armani’s trouser suits kept them feminine, but also gave them something they needed and craved — a sense of equality. This was his secret strength — to use his signature talents of minimalism, precision and eye for detail to suss out what society truly needed. He did this at every point in his long career. And then delivered with ease. That was his master act.

While reading about the great man’s passing away, I was extremely impressed to read about his meticulously crafted succession plan. Armani did not have children. But his business acumen seems to be matched with a great vision for his succession. According to reports, the company will be inherited by his chosen family members, loyal business associates and selected charities. 

Armani has also clearly indicated that the brand must continue to pursue “essential, modern, elegant and unostentatious style with attention to detail and wearability”. He has stipulated that no big decisions involving sales, mergers etc can take place within five years of his demise. This is with a view to stabilising and consolidating the business in his absence. Reading this made me appreciate what a thoughtful person he was. 

Armani was also a very private person. Not much is known about his personal life. But he loved art, and also honoured and protected what he created. It was an experience to live in the times of Giorgio Armani.

The writer is a fashion designer who lives between Delhi and Goa