BEE-SHYUAN CHANG Before the CFDA Fashion Awards in June,New York-based fashion designer Phillip Lim,whod been travelling frequently and working hard,was feeling a bit puffy. I heard of models and other designers taking arnica before big events or photo shoots,so I thought Id try it out, he said recently,referring to the homeopathic supplement arnica montana. Its supposed to slim you down because it flushes you out. And it clears up your skin. Lim tried a three-day oral regimen of arnica before walking the red carpet,and was pleased with the results. I did feel like my skin glowed afterwards, he said. Available in pellets,topical gels,creams and even massage oil,arnica is the latest of many herbal remedies to invigorate,if not intoxicate,the fashion crowd. Linda Fargo,the fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman,counts the pellet form as one of her fashion week survival must-haves,and the stylist Isabel Dupré has long been a fan. I know it for its healing quality, Dupre said. Its an old family remedy. Wende Zomnir,the executive creative director of Urban Decay cosmetics,who uses arnica in several forms instead of nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs,said: I think its amazing. I take it myself,give it to my kids and hand it out at the gym I work out at. I use it after a tough workout to prevent muscle soreness,if myself or my kids have gotten bumped around and might be bruised,or if Ive strained a muscle. Derived from a yellow mountain daisy that grows in Europe and is also known as leopards bane,arnica has traditionally been used to treat bruising. It reputedly increases circulation by stimulating white blood cell activity,thereby decreasing the amount of healing time and reducing inflammation. If taken internally,it must be diluted with water; arnica contains the toxin helenalin and is poisonous if consumed in large quantities. Dr Macrene Alexiades-Armenakas,a Manhattan dermatologist and an assistant clinical professor at Yale,said that,taken orally,arnica has been reported to cause irritation and toxicity for both the gastrointestinal system and the kidneys. Sports figures had showing interest in the substance since long. Pierre Barrieu,a former head fitness coach for the US Mens National Soccer Team,had been treating players with arnica pellets and topical formulations since 2002. Basically,it was to relieve the effects of blows and bruises (i.e.,prevent swelling and bleeding) when applied in a timely manner, he wrote in an e-mail. Its best to apply as early as possible after the traumatic event. We also used it to accelerate the recovery,because arnica decreases the inflammation. And finally,it was used to prevent cramps. Orthopaedic surgeons have also prescribed arnica as a pre- and post-operative measure. And some dermatologists have recommended it after plastic surgery and injectables like Botox and Restylane. On online forums,especially of the ayurvedic and homeopathic variety,arnica oil has been touted as a remedy for alopecia,or hair loss. Zomnir of Urban Decay used it for pain and soreness after natural delivery. My midwife gave me arnica after the births of my boys, she said. I had them both at home,so no drugs available. Arnica did the trick. Still others say it clears up acne and other skin inflammations. Nelsons Pure and Clear Acne Gel lists arnica as one of four active ingredients. In an Elle magazine interview,the model Gisele Bundchen touted Nelsons gel as a gentle way to clear up blemishes. Arnica has evolved, said Dr. Alexiades-Armenakas. Even though it has a long history,its never been terribly effective. Fast forward to the present,and weve had a good amount of labs analyze the active ingredients in arnica. Theyve identified a number of ingredients that account for anti-bruising,and among them are caffeine derivatives. The idea is to combat puffiness because caffeine has a constrictive ability on blood vessels and lymphatic vessels, she said. Dr Charles Passler,a Manhattan chiropractor and nutritionist who has worked with the Estée Lauder model Carolyn Murphy and with Dylan Lauren,recommends both oral and topical forms of arnica,mainly for bruising and inflammation. As far as using arnica as a tool for changing body composition,Im not aware of it, he said. For temporary de-bloating,though,Dr Passler conceded,It will help decrease any puffiness in the body caused by inflammation. Despite her use of arnica in a topical product,Dr Alexiades-Armenakas remains concerned about long-term oral use. I would be okay if they did it for a few days for a photo shoot once a month, she said of the fashionable pill-poppers. But if theyre having a photo shoot every week,and theyre regularly on it,I would be very worried. Especially for models,theyre very thin,and its easier to get toxicity.
