KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL

Chef Sabyasachi Gorai of Olive Bar and Kitchen believes that there is much consciousness about hygiene and food safety in the country now. “One of my first jobs was in Goa and one day,as I saw a waiter carrying an idli platter,I knew something was wrong but it took me a few seconds to process what. I realised the words ‘Lal Mahal Basmati Rice’ typed in red ink were visible on the idlis. Apparently,the chef had run out of the sheets used to cover the idlis when they were being steamed,so he used the rice sack. I think we’ve come a long way since then,” he recalls.

Most five-star chefs agree that the biggest challenge is to enforce hygiene practices into the every day work culture of cooks,waiters and cleaners. Many of them follow the HACCP (Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Points) regime,a seven-step programme to avoid contamination of ingredients. Besides,some chains such as the Taj have switched to the ISO:22000 certification — a more comprehensive standardisation system. A litany of steps have to be followed — colour-coded chopping boards,procedures for storage of ingredients,periodic cleaning of all food-service related areas and standards for personal hygiene.

From personal experience of working at a five-star kitchen in Delhi,this correspondent recalls the hourly ringing of an alarm clock,which had all the kitchen staff lining up at the wash basin to wash/ sanitise hands. Not to mention periodic checking of hair and nail lengths,surprise swabbing of hands to check for bacterial content and even pop quizzes on HACCP practices.

But it’s not just the multi-starred hotels who are under scrutiny. From roadside chaatwallahs to casual dining eateries,everyone is now aware of the machinations of bacteria. Jeevan Kumar,22,who worked at Evergreen Sweets before setting up his own ‘chaat corner’ in South Delhi,insists he is particular about hygiene. While at work,his hands are always sheathed in plastic gloves. “Customers sab kuch saaf-suthra chaahate hai. Isliye hum sab gloves pehante hai toh infection nahin phaile. (customers want everything to be hygienic,so we use gloves to avoid infections),” he says. In fact,Kumar spends about 900 rupees a month on transparent plastic gloves,an investment he says he doesn’t mind.

Chef Mousim Sidana,who manages Diva Piccola in Hauz Khas Village,says training the staff to be conscious about hygiene is vital for a restaurant. “We do a training exercise when someone joins in — be it a chef or a server,to update them about hygiene practices in the kitchen as well as expected personal grooming standards,” says Sidana.

The question that lurks despite these “perfect answers on perfect hygiene” is that if everyone is so conscientious about food contamination,why does food poisoning continue to be an ongoing side effect of eating out? A good way to ensure that you are eating a meal that is not going to make you sick is to be extra vigilant while choosing the place and the food. Especially in this “open season”.