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This is an archive article published on September 1, 2007

TURKISH DELIGHT

A balloon ride in Cappadocia isn’t all hot air. It unveils sights that go way beyond the mundane. Like the Phallic Valley

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Urrgh! I never get any wide-eyed responses from my two German friends. Nothing is new for them; they’ve been everywhere, done everything. From accommodation in Lansdowne to public transport in Botswana and Thai diners in Jordan—they make it all seem like common knowledge. When I told them about the decadent holiday my hubby and I had in Istanbul—the scrub-a-dubs in a 900-year old hamam, exotic al fresco cafes, the belly dancing shows with yummy Turkish Raki, luxe yatchs on the Bosphorus and the trance of the whirling dervishes—they knew 217 more things than we gathered from the guides (the paper and human types). But not when we told about our hot air balloon flight in the spectacular pre-historic valleys of Cappadocia.

Cappadocia, in central Turkey, is the strangest and most enchanting of the world’s hot air ballooning spots. Picture an expanse, a lunarscape valley. Dot it with bizarre conical or cylindrical structures, some as high as 45 meters or more. No explanation about the formation of these phallic lookalikes (they call it the Phallic Valley or the land of ‘fairy chimneys’) seems convincing enough. It is said that millions of years ago, Central Anatolia (Cappadocia is a part of it) was the epicenter of a once-active volcanic region. Through different geological ages, ferocious volcanoes spewed lava and tufa. So, these structures are actually volcanic poop that has been worked upon by nature’s elements. Somehow, I still cannot understand just how some structures got topped with giant conical caps. And how did these caps balance themselves up there through wind, rain and ice! Now imagine flying gently over this bizarre topography, looking down at giant canyons, distorted rock structures, lush valleys and underground cities where Hittites and early Christians lived.

The ballooning experience starts well before the crack of dawn. An early morning start is a small price to pay for this experience-of-a-lifetime. (The big price is the balloon ride itself). We were picked from our hotel and taken to the valley of fairy chimneys and caves. The driver got off and opened the door of the vehicle. Reading this as a sign of our arrival at the destination, I woke up hubby and we disembarked. I could not spot the driver in the dark but saw this as an opportunity to soak the views. I stood on uneven and rocky ground with strange and scary conical formations all around me. Some had windows and doorways that were used by the early settlers. I saw camera-toting tourists emerge out of these doors, with the driver in tow. Apparently, these primitive caves were now boutique hotels, complete with mod-cons for the soft adventure seeker. Thousands of years back, nuns and monks stayed in there because volcanic rock keeps warm in winters and cool in summers. Today, as tourists, we want to feel at home even while we travel to be far from it.

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At the take-off field, the sky and its magical colours gave an ethereal touch to the already fascinating landscape. The introduction by the pilots had set us at ease. (A nervous American tourist in Istanbul had cautioned hubby against ballooning in Cappadocia after he experienced a bumpy fall instead of a descent). We realised that we were flying with the most experienced ballooning pilots in town—a husband and wife team. While the husband prepared the two balloons with the help of his staff, the wife gave instructions (gendered division of labour!) with enough humour to calm any edgy nerves. The total number of passengers was divided into two groups, one in each balloon. With all ears to the pre-flight instructions, we gaped at the preparations for take-off. The mammoth balloon was spread on the fields and the fuel system switched on. After hot air snuggled into the limp sheet lying on the ground, a majestic balloon—as high as a six-story building—stood erect on the trailer. We were asked to swiftly get into the wicker baskets. The impatient balloon freed itself from the trailer and lifted off the ground. And before we knew it, we saw the shadow of our huge balloon on the fields below.

The take off was slow and gentle. As it rose up, the feeling of calmness and joy overpowered me. We nearly forgot the cameras that hung around our neck till we heard clicks around us. The balloon rose and dipped into valleys, flew over treetops, apricot farms and vineyards and once passed an inch away from a giant fairy chimney. While I was gripped by the view, hubby divided his attention between the scenery and the flight control equipment. Having flown a Cessna, he envied the pilot and listened to him in rapt attention. He said the record of the highest balloon flight is held by an India man—he flew 70,000 feet in Mumbai! After an hour or so of floating in the sky and gazing at the scenes, I sat down. An Australian woman followed suit and we started chatting. To my utter surprise and hers, we realised that the balloon felt absolutely stationary. So gentle is its movement that if you are not looking out, it feels static!

The highest we went was 6,700 feet. We glided over these natural wonders for close to two hours. The weather was balmy. Descent was again slow and smooth. The landing was perfect and precise. The balloon landed right over the trailer. It was quickly fastened to big hooks on the trailer to stop it from drifting off. I looked up and missed being the bird I was!

A champagne party at landing was just the right way to celebrate. We ate cakes and freshly-picked apricots and received our flight certificates. I asked the pilot about ballooning accidents. He said it was just a case of bad apples. Apparently, a rich Sheikh recently bought 10 balloons for Cappadocia. These are being flown by his sons and nephews, who have barely clocked a few months of flying time each. The American tourist had clearly fallen into wrong hands. I have a different story to tell. And my German friends are listening!

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